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Pivot Percussion Pedal Review

Pivot Percussion – A Review

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What feels like 403 years ago, the world was plunged into distress with the onset of the Covid-19 pandemic. We don’t need to relive the panic and hardship. However, it’s worth mentioning that musicians and the performance industry were hit extremely hard. Bars, restaurants, and venues closed. Overnight, singing became one of the most transmissible and dangerous pastimes. Gigs and performance opportunities are slowly coming back, but the landscape has been forever changed by Covid-19. Venues that used to regularly hire full bands and groups can now only afford to support solo players and duos.

 

Act I: The Problem.

Without his trusty band behind him, the hero of our story, Shaun, felt the need to augment his performance. He plays guitar and sings, but there wasn’t enough punch or low end to his show. One night, he saw a fellow musician play guitar and stomp on a suitcase that had an SM58 microphone stuck inside. The sound was unreliable and muddy, and the singer’s constant motion looked exhausting. But the idea was sparked. Shaun knew that he could take this concept and turn it into something incredible.

 

Intermission: Testing, Testing, Testing.

Shaun developed “The Lab”, a specialty workshop on his property for creating, testing, and prototyping what would one day become Pivot Percussion. I was fortunate enough to gig with him frequently as a duo during this development period, and there was a new model under our feet nearly every week. From the beginning, Shaun had nailed the ergonomic and comfortable nature of the pedals, but there was still work to be done with the perfect tone and sound. With what is now unique patented technology, Shaun created the Pivot Capsules. These are modular cores that can be swapped in and out of the pedals to make different sounds. Whether it’s a punchy bass drum, a sizzly shaker, or a snappy maraca, we were able to completely customize our show.

 

Act II: The Solution.

Enter, YOU. It’s time for the audience to try out Pivot. These one-of-a-kind instruments are now launched to the world and for sale at pivotpercussion.com. There will also be some at Songbirds very soon! Here’s an honest review of Pivot and what it can do for your performances:

 

The Review:

I absolutely love my Pivot pedals. There are other percussion instruments on the market, but Pivot fills a much-needed void. The pedals themselves are beautiful and nearly indestructible, plus there’s peace of mind knowing that the heart of the technology, the capsules, are easily replaceable if something were to go wrong. Here are my specific pros and cons after playing the pedals from their inception to launch:

 

Pros:

Passive components. I LOVE the fact that the Pivots don’t require external power or batteries. They’re just like a guitar – plug and play. I’m fortunate enough to know a little about how they’re wired on the inside, and I can say with confidence that the patented technology is extremely robust. Shaun said from the beginning that he wanted to be able to run them over with a van and they could keep playing. I’m confident that would be possible. (No Pivots were harmed in the making of this review.)

Impact reactive. Pivot pedals are all analog, meaning they don’t work like a digital trigger. With competitor percussion devices, the sound is constant no matter how hard you play. Pivots are a real instrument – the sound and attack changes the harder you stomp. You can also get interesting and varied results based on your footwear. This makes the Pivots much more musical and organic.

Incredible sound quality. Shaun nailed each of the capsules and their sound signatures. Pivot pedals sound massive and present through PAs and powered speakers right out of the box. Very little (if any) tweaking is needed on the speaker to make the Pivots sound their best.

Eco-friendly. Each Pivot pedal is made with locally-sourced, reclaimed lumber. This includes trees that were lost during hurricanes and storms. Instead of destroying wood in a landfill, Shaun turns fallen trees into musical works of art.

Locally owned and operated. Pivot Percussion is based out of Longwood, Florida. Each pedal is handmade and inspected.

Great customer support. Shaun stands by each pedal and is quick to offer support and replacements if needed.

Unique builds with customization. Because Pivots are made of real lumber, no two pedals look alike. Shaun makes some incredibly attractive Pivots that showcase natural woodgrain and the beauty of the tree. There are also customization options available. I was given a prototype pedal that has my face on it!

Super comfy. This is the kicker (pun intended): you really can play for hours without getting tired. The design of the Original Pivot works perfectly with the flow of the leg and the knee. Using your heel to stomp prevents any shin pain or muscle fatigue, and the padding of the Pivot plus your footwear prevents any soreness in the heel. You can literally stand on the Original Pivots while playing them if you prefer to stand while performing. The Standard Pivots are great for playing piano or a minimalistic drumset. It’s worth mentioning that the Standards can be played with both the heel and the toe for maximum comfort.

Extra goodies. Shaun offers quality Pivot cables, cases, and straps for the instruments. It’s nice when companies go the extra mile. Everyone knows Sweetwater for the candy that they throw in every order – Pivot’s attention to detail with bonus goodies is even better.

 

Cons:

Difficult to master at first. I won’t sugarcoat this – Pivot pedals take a lot of time to get the hang of and master. I’m admittedly not the most coordinated person, but playing guitar, singing, AND stomping your feet on rhythm is challenging. I started incorporating Pivots into my performance gradually. Once you get over the first coordination hurdle, they do start to feel natural and second nature. Most of us tap our feet while playing anyway; the mental obstacle isn’t there, but the physical one takes some time.

Lots of options. This is both a Pro and a Con: there are a lot of customization options with the Pivot sound! There are three standard options with capsules: kick, maraca, and shaker. Combine this with using two pedals at once, and there are A LOT of possible combinations to take your playing to the next level. I use my Pivot pedals with a looper, and it’s easy to get lost in the possibilities and overcomplicating your performance. I started incorporating just the kick capsule with one pedal until I felt confident enough to expand.

Need a good sound system. This likely isn’t an issue, but Pivots sound the best when played through a nice powered speaker or PA. Pivots are targeted towards the professional, working musician who likely has a quality system already, so I don’t expect that this would be a hindrance to anyone purchasing a Pivot pedal.

 

Conclusion:

We are incredibly proud of Shaun and excited about the launch of Pivot Percussion! Come check them out at Songbirds, and ask Justin when you can see them in action at a local gig. Until next time, keep practicing, and check out our other posts on the Knowledge Blog!



Guitar Tone Guide

Guitars: What Actually Matters for Tone

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We are ecstatic to announce our new dealership agreement with Ibanez! In light of the good news, I felt it prudent to write a blog about what actually impacts an electric guitar’s sound and playability. This is a hotly contested topic, and there is no shortage of opinions online. I recommend following the advice of individuals who have done genuine scientific experiments and have building experience to back up their claims. I have personally built several guitars from scratch and have repaired many instruments of varying quality. The opinions here are what I’ve discovered – if you have varying information, please let us know!

A further disclaimer: Paul of PRS Guitars famously follows a 21-point checklist that his company developed. This list includes 21 points on the instrument that impact sound quality. My list below isn’t to say that I don’t believe Paul or conventional wisdom on the topic – I’m just of the belief that the list can be heavily skewed towards things that matter a lot versus things that hardly matter at all.

What Matters A LOT:

  • Pickups. At this stage of my career, I’ll die on the hill that pickups are the most important feature of an electric guitar. This is only tied with the neck (see below). A good quality pickup can make or break the sound of the instrument and how the signal is translated to the speaker.
  • Pickup orientation. There’s a huge tonal difference between single-coil pickups, humbuckers, active pickups, and other types that you commonly find in guitars. For example, the thinner, chime-y sound of single-coils is what defines country, southern rock, funk, and classic rock. What’s more, the pickups can be wired to virtually any configuration. Whether it’s three-position, five-position, or more… coil tapping, wiring mods… the possibilities are endless and can all change the tonal palette that you have on your instrument.
  • Neck/Fretboard. The neck of the guitar has the biggest impact on how it feels when played. In my opinion, a good neck should be straight and slick with frets that are set well and intonated correctly. If the neck is excellent, your playing will improve dramatically.
  • Setup. Every guitar needs a professional setup to play and sound its best. A setup includes action adjustment, or how high the strings are from the fingerboard, and intonation adjustment, or how in tune the guitar is with itself. Both of these have a massive impact on how easy it is to play and how correct it sounds.
  • Speaker/Amp. This a bit beyond the scope of this blog, but your output setup matters. An incredible and expensive guitar will only sound average when played through a low-quality speaker or amp. Balance the quality of your speaker with your guitar for best tonal results.
  • Tuners. I’ve found that tuners don’t change the sound of the instrument – their job is to stay in place and be reliable. However, this is important when you’re playing frequently and doing lots of re-tuning and bending. Low-quality tuners will go out of tune frequently and make your instrument sound wonky. I always recommend locking tuners – even the cheaper models are above and beyond what standard tuners can accomplish in regard to reliability.

What Matters A LITTLE:

  • The pick that you use. Picks of different hardness and elasticity will have different strengths of attack against the strings. This mostly translates to loudness, but different picks also change how you play.
  • The strings. You’ve probably heard of string gauge, or how thick a string is. You can get monster sound from both thick and thin strings – what really matters is tuning stability and sustain. Thicker strings stay in tune longer and sustain more, but they are difficult to bend and can hurt the fingers. Thin strings have the opposite features. Experiment with what size strings are best for your play style, and don’t forget that fresh strings will always sound and feel better than old ones.
  • The nut. Players often get into arguments about what material of nut is best for the sound of the guitar. I don’t have strong opinions on this topic, but I do believe that cheap plastic nuts should be swapped out for better-quality materials like bone, synthetic bone, or brass. This is to prevent breakage and keep the strings in tune longer.
  • Internal electronics. Better quality electronics like potentiometers and wires don’t have a huge impact on the signal of the guitar, but they’re much more durable and feel better to use. I always recommend swapping out stock electronics for ones of better quality simply because they’ll last longer and resist wear.

What HARDLY MATTERS at all:

  • “Tonewood” or what the body is made of. This has a big impact with acoustic guitars, but it doesn’t matter very much at all for electric guitars. Your primary concern with the body should be its shape (how does it feel to hold it and play for extended periods?) and its weight. There’s nothing worse than playing a multi-hour gig with a brick tied across your shoulders. Check out this video by Glen Fricker for a tonewood side-by-side comparison (parental discretion advised: language) and this video of that one time someone made a cement guitar.

The Final Takeaway:

If I were building a guitar on a budget for a professional gig, I’d splurge on nice pickups and a good neck. Nothing else has a massive impact on my style of playing. Check out this video for a demonstration of why pickups matter, even when there isn’t a guitar body at all.

I hope that this helped clear some things up! Let us know if you’d like to check out some awesome new Ibanez products, and until next time with the Knowlege Blog, keep practicing!

Custom Guitar Pedals

What are the Most Important Guitar Pedals?

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The wonderful world of guitar pedals and effects can be overwhelming. I remember buying my first pedal when I was in high school and never truly learning how to use it (or even what it did!) for years. The exciting reality is that guitar pedals allow us to transform our instrument into an amazing variety of sounds – the sky's the limit! Here are my recommendations for the most important types of guitar pedals to get you started, plus some of my favorites in each category. Don't forget that Songbirds stocks custom pedals that are clones of most of these circuits that are listed! Check out our shop, or contact Justin if you have an idea for a custom order.

Custom Guitar Pedals

1. Overdrive, Distortion, or Fuzz

This recommendation is especially true if you currently don’t have any guitar pedals. Start here if you’re brand new to the pedal world! Overdrive, Distortion, or Fuzz should be your most important pedal because they all make an incredible difference in your sound when activated. They open up your horizons and allow you to more authentically play rock, blues, metal, or any genre with crunch. The one that you choose is up to personal taste, but I recommend Overdrive for the most utility in different musical styles. Overdrive has less distortion and signal clipping, Distortion has a medium amount, and Fuzz has a lot!

My favorite overdrives are the DOD250, Klon Centaur, and EQD Speaker Cranker.

For distortion, I love the Proco RAT and EQD Acapulco Gold.

My favorite fuzzes are the original germanium Fuzz Face and the Devi-Ever Hyperion.

Songbirds has clones of ALL of these listed favorites in stock, plus they're custom! Come in and try them to see if you like how they sound.

2. Amp Simulator or Tone Shaping

Every guitarist needs a reliable “amp-in-a-box” pedal, especially for playing gigs and recording. You can skip this step if you ONLY play with an amplifier. However, the moment you start playing through a speaker, PA, or recording through an interface, you will notice the need for an Amp Simulator. Why is that? Guitar amps do a lot of heavy lifting with shaping the way that guitars sound. They boost the incoming guitar signal before the speaker makes it sing, plus they have great control over EQ, or how much bass, middle, and treble sound is in your signal. Most importantly, amps “warm up” the sound of the instrument by adding in natural breakup, or very light distortion, which we have come to expect when we hear a guitar.
An Amp Simulator pedal provides all of the perks of your guitar amp, in a conveniently smaller and much lighter package. This pedal should always go last in your signal chain before heading out to your speakers or interface. Treat it just like you would a real amp. Even acoustic guitarists need an Amp Simulator, especially because those instruments tend to sound tinny when plugged directly into a speaker.
If you are primarily recording through an interface, you can use virtual Amp Simulators in your Digital Audio Workstation. Having an EQ or Amp Simulator pedal may still help shape your sound at the source, which always expedites the recording and writing process.

The most famous utility amp simulator is the Joyo American Sound. This company also stocks a British Sound version. You can't beat the price!

More boutique amp simulator pedals offer a wider control over tone shaping and specific warmth. I play with a clone of a Dumble Overdrive Special that I made, but I also love a Fender Tweed simulator. Ask Songbirds if you'd like a custom amp sim pedal made for you!

3. Reverb or Delay

These circuits add dimension, space, and depth to your guitar’s sound. Reverb is more of an ambient wash that imitates the sound of a room when music is played in it. Imagine how your guitar would sound if you were to perform in a concrete stairwell, a warehouse, or a cathedral – that’s Reverb. Delay is more of an echo. This circuit briefly copies your incoming guitar signal, then spits out a copy at a delayed rate that you can control. Imagine shouting into a canyon or clapping in a cave or stadium – that’s Delay.
Most professional guitarists have both Reverb and Delay pedals (and use them together), but there is a fair amount of overlap in what they accomplish. I’m more of a Reverb guy myself, but it’s up to you to decide what you like best!

I always use an EQD Ghost Echo clone that I made at the end of my signal chain for excellent reverb.

For delay, you can't go wrong with the digital titan, the Boss DD-3. I personally prefer analog delays that have a bit of grit and warmth to their decay like the MXR Carbon Copy or the Madbean Cave Dweller (a mid-fi DIY project with amazing capability).

4. Something Unique

Now it’s time to have some fun! I recommend that your next pedal is something that is unique – something that makes you excited to play it (and maybe is a little wacky). Maybe it could be a Chorus for a seasick wash of sound, or maybe it could be an Autowah to make your guitar “speak” like a robot. You could be extra adventurous and try a Phaser or a Flanger for crazy out-of-this-world alien sounds, or you could experiment with a Bitcrusher for old-school video game sound effects. We are lucky to have some much technology at our fingertips, and with a bit of innovation, we are able to make our guitars sound like completely different instruments. Have fun, and just try stuff!

This is my favorite category of pedal, and I could make an entire book on recommendations. The Midfi Clarinot, Walrus Audio Julia, Parasit Studio Multiwave, Morley Autowah, and EQD Grand Orbiter are probably the five wacky pedals that I would take to a desert island, assuming it had power and lots of guitars.

Speaking of “just try stuff”, check out the JHS Show, one of my favorite channels for awesome guitar content!

Great Bass Guitars

Great Bass Guitars (under $400!)

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Great Bass Guitars

The bass guitar is a relatively simple instrument, but finding a quality and ergonomic one can be tricky. There are a lot of factors that go into considering the perfect bass like weight, scale, and onboard electronics. Use this list to narrow down the search and find the bass that is perfect for you! What's more, all of these great recommendations are under $400!

Some bass enthusiasts may wonder why Squier or Fender basses didn't make this list. Fender's price point is too high for this “under $400 collection.” Some Squier basses fit the price point, but I have found them to be exceptionally heavy. They are still great instruments, though! If you have the shoulders for it, try a Squier.

Ibanez 4-String Bass Guitar

I owned and played this bass for a while and loved it. It is a great all-purpose instrument and is perfect as a first bass guitar. The onboard electronics are nice, and all of the color choices are especially fun!

Ibanez 4-String Bass Guitar, 4 Knobs

This bass is slightly nicer than the previous example. It has one extra tone knob which can help narrow down the instrument's sound. However, don't sweat it if this is out of your price range – three knobs is still a great option!

Ibanez GSR Six String Bass

This is an incredible price for a six-string bass. What's more, the finish options are classy and beautiful! Most beginners should start with four strings, but this instrument is perfect for the intermediate or advanced player who is interested in expanding to more strings.

Ibanez Five String Bass

Much like the previous link, this is a fantastic price for a five-string bass! The price and quality of Ibanez instruments can't be beat, especially for bass guitars. The addition of extra strings is a personal preference, but many bassists find having the extra string useful.

Ibanez Mezzo Bass

This is one sleek and flashy instrument. It's a true medium-scale bass, meaning that it's slightly smaller and lighter than most basses. Players with small hands may find this instrument for comfortable. The finish is sure to get compliments as well!

Hofner IgnitionSB Bass

This is a clone of the famous Beatles bass that Paul McCartney used! I play this model often and absolutely love it. It is light as a feather and sounds amazing. If weight is an issue, this is undoubtedly the best choice on this list. Plus, it looks super cool!

Hofner Bass (Black)

This is the same instrument as the previous link, but in black. It's one sleek bass!

Yamaha GRM Four String Bass

This is a great bass offering by Yamaha, another wonderful instrument manufacturer. This instrument boasts four knob controls and electronics that are comparable, if not better than, the Ibanez's in the same price bracket.

Yamaha BB-Series Bass

This model is very comparable to the previous Yamaha bass, but the body design is exceptionally eye-catching! If you want a flashy bass that stands out, look no further.

There you have it! Enjoy these great bass recommendations all under $400. Check out our blog for more quality information, articles, and buying guides!

Snare Drum Upgrades

Snare Drum Upgrades (for under $300!)

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Snare Drum Upgrades

Let's face it – any drummer needs an amazing snare drum to sound great. The snare might be the most important drum in the whole drum kit! If your drum set is sounding a little sub-par, check out these recommendations for great snare drums that won't break the bank. All of these snares are great quality pieces that will last well into a professional drumming career.

All of the links below are from Sweetwater, a reputable musical instrument dealer. You may find better prices elsewhere, but the customer service of Sweetwater can't be beat. As with any instrument, it is always best to try it out in person, if possible, before purchasing.

Ludwig Black Magic Snare

This is a clone of one of the most famous and sought-after snare drums in history: the Ludwig Black Beauty. You can't beat the sound, quality, and recognition of this snare.

Pearl Piccolo Snare

Pearl is a great and reliable drum company. A lot of their products and endorsements are common in Florida as well! Piccolo snares are thinner and therefore have more “snap” and “crack” than their normal-sized counterparts. This snare in particular boasts great community reviews.

Mapex Armory Snare

This is a great and forgiving snare that has a warm tone. It is perfect for playing a variety of genres. It is a true hybrid snare and is ideal for the gigging musician, cover band artist, or recording performer.

Pearl Modern Utility Snare

Much like the Mapex Armory Snare, this Pearl model is perfect for playing across various genres of music. It also has a warm tone and much more depth than the listed piccolo snare.

Pearl Session Snare

This snare was designed with recording in mind. Therefore, the sound that it produces is top-notch. It is made with two plies of birch, a softer wood, and two plies of mahogany, a rich and dense tone wood. This combination produces a beautiful finish and an unbeatable sound.

Mapex Daisy Cutter

This gorgeous snare is the most vocal on our list. Be sure to wear earplugs – this snare is loud! This is the perfect model for musicians who enjoy harder rock, metal, and demanding drumming.

PDP Concept Snare

This snare is one classy drum. The walnut tone wood and finish make it sound and look warmer than other snares on the market. This model is also great for playing across genres.

We hope that you enjoyed these great snare recommendations! Check out our Blog for more buying guides, gear suggestions, and interesting articles!

Gift Guide

Songbirds Musician’s Holiday Gift Guide 2019

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Acoustic Drums 101

Acoustic Drums 101

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There’s no way around it – drums are a confusing instrument for beginners and intermediate players alike. Check out this article to learn how to properly set up an acoustic kit, avoid damage, and most importantly, protect your ears!

Acoustic Drums 101

Recommended Pieces

Acoustic drums come in all kinds of crazy varieties and set-ups. Most famous drummers mix-and-match their sets to make complete custom kits! For most music genres and levels of playing from amateur to professional, you will likely need the following pieces and their relevant hardware:

One bass (also called kick) drum.

One snare drum.

One hi-hat cymbal.

One crash cymbal.

One floor tom.

One mounted high tom.

Many kits and packages are available that come with two mounted toms. Kits may also offer a ride cymbal or another crash cymbal. Any extra parts that you can obtain within your price range is generally a good thing! Be aware that “complete” kits frequently do not come with cymbals. Triple check product descriptions to ensure that the kit comes with ALL necessary hardware, cymbals, and actual drums so that there aren’t any surprises after it is delivered. If you plan to piece together your own custom set, be wary – the price quickly ads up.

*If you are purchasing a set from a private seller, spend the extra money and get the delivery insured by USPS or other mail services! It will save you a ton of potential heart-ache.*

Traditional Setup

As you or your student develop as a drummer, a specific style of playing will be developed. Until then, I recommend to use the traditional set-up that most drummers use for playing, seen in the pictures below.

Drum setup

Be sure to place the entire drum set on a rug or carpeted area. Otherwise, the pieces will move and scratch the floor as you play!

The snare drum should be as flat and level as possible. Likewise, the floor tom should be flat and on the same plane as the snare drum to make playing fluid and easy. All cymbals, with the exception of the hi-hat, should slightly slope downwards towards the player. Any mounted toms may have a gentle angle applied to make playing comfortable. Most drummers play with a higher stool height so that they are above the drums. Adjust the general height of the set with this in mind. The player’s knees should never bend less than a ninety-degree angle while seated and playing.

How to Tune the Heads

Learning how to properly tune drum heads is an art in itself, but use these basic directions to get you started! First, find the drum key that likely came with your set. If you don’t have one, purchase one here. Put the drum on one of the rim lugs and gently turn clockwise to tighten it. Only complete several small turns. Then, repeat the process on the lug that is directly across from the one on which you started. Always tune all drum heads in a star pattern to evenly disperse the tension. As the drum gets tighter, repeat the process with the first lug and continuing until the head is as tight as you like. Use a stick to gently tap on the head as you tune.

If you are a perfectionist or a professional, tap on the head and near the lugs to hear slight variations in pitch. Tighten the lowest pitch lugs until the drum is resonating with the same tone when struck near every lug and in the center. This step is not necessary for beginners or unless you are playing a show or recording. Properly tuning the drums will make the kit sound better, though.

Mesh Heads and Mutes

Most people are wary of acoustic drums because they are so loud! If the noise worries you, or if you live in close-proximity housing to your neighbors, mutes are in order for your kit. Drum mutes refer to strips of rubber that lay on the drum pieces and muffle vibrations. Some affordable but quality mutes can be found here. For cymbals, you may also use these mutes that cling to the metal and greatly stifle noise. Regardless, I highly recommend purchasing mesh heads for the drums. They are relatively inexpensive and will last a long time if proper care is taken! They drastically reduce the sound of the drum and feel just like the normal heads when playing. Be aware that heads come in various sizes. To determine what size you need, measure the diameter of the drum at its widest point without the rim. Approximations are okay – go with the head size that is closest to your set.

Bass drum mutes and mesh heads can be purchased, but you can often get away with stuffing the bass drum with blankets and towels. Experiment to find out how much is needed to suit your sound reduction needs!

Drum Warnings

Drums are extremely sturdy. After all, they’re designed to take a beating! However, there are several ways to damage a drum set:

Be careful not to over-tighten the drum heads. Doing so could ruin the heads and strip the lugs.

When adjusting hardware, loosen the joints first! Failing to do so will strip the joints and will render the hardware useless. Always check to see if there is a thumb screw that can be loosened before you bend hardware.

Never play on the resonant heads. These are the heads that are attached to the bottom of each drum. When using real acoustic heads, the resonant heads do a lot to fill out the sound and make the drums sound great. If the resonant heads get damaged or dented from playing, they can’t do their job properly.

Never leave drums or pieces of the set in a hot car! It’s best to leave them out of direct sunlight as well. If drums get too hot, the wrapping on the shells can warp, crack, and render the drums useless. This damage is not repairable.

Keep the drums away from water. Moisture is always deadly to acoustic instruments, and drums are no different.

Strike all cymbals properly. Cymbals are tough, but they can crack and break if they are repeatedly struck incorrectly. The sticks should never collide with the thin edge of the cymbal and exert force towards the center. All stick hits should come from above and pass downward towards the floor.

Ensure that the bass foot pedal is tightly fixed to the bass drum. It’s easy to accidentally kick the pedal through the bass drum head. The pedal can also cause abrasions to the head if it is too loose.

Recommended Accessories

Besides the drum set, you’ll need some accessories to make playing easier! You will certainly need several pairs of sticks. All drummers, especially beginners, should have a pair of 5A sticks in their arsenal. This is the best utilitarian stick and gets the job done for most genres. You will need several pairs as all drum sticks eventually chip and break from use. It is also recommended to purchase a comfortable and quality drum throne. You’ll be spending a lot of time sitting on it, so it needs to be cozy! Likewise, a music stand is necessary. Most drummers set their stand up close to their hi-hat so that the music is easily visible.

Lastly, reliable ear protection is vital. This is not an optional purchase. Playing acoustic, un-muted drums for any extended period of time will result in permanent hearing damage. I recommend using these earplugs as they do not block the sound but merely reduce the decibels. Noise-cancelling headphones or conventional earplugs may also be an option for your needs. Remember that you only get two ears and that hearing damage is not reversible.

Congratulations on taking your first step towards better drum playing! Best of luck, and have fun! Check out our other informative articles here, and subscribe to our vlog here to receive the newest content about the performing arts!

Recording Necessities

The Bare Necessities of Recording

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Our more advanced students often ask us how to record quality music at home. Fortunately, you don’t need a massive budget or fancy recording studio to get great results! The following list includes all of the bare necessities that you will need to successfully make quality recordings at home. Special attention has been given to pick great gear at low and affordable prices!

Recording Necessities

Computer

All recording is now digital and done with computers. You absolutely need a reliable computer if you plan on recording anything successfully. Laptops, desktops, Apple products, and PC products all work equally well. Keep in mind that large programs will need to be saved and accessed on the machine, so internet ports like Chromebooks are not useful for recording. Gaming laptops are not recommended. The machine needs to have a lot of free memory and storage space so that it does not slow down when the recording programs are running. Therefore, it is a good idea to figure out how to easily quit background applications and cut back on memory usage when recording. Any hiccup in computer performance will translate to your recording and could ruin a great project!

Digital Audio Workstation (DAW)

A DAW is the program that is used on the computer to record. These programs are very complicated, heavy, and expensive. Although most beginning musicians choose to pirate copies of DAWs from the internet, resist the urge to follow suit. Piracy is illegal and prevents the creators of the software from making more quality products. It’s also a great way to infest your computer with viruses and compromise your security. Some great DAWs are:

If you have an Apple product, you probably have Garageband. This is not considered a professional DAW, although it has some useful functions. It can be a useful learning tool for beginners or if you are working on the road. However, avoid using it for serious projects if you plan on recording a lot in the future.

Audio Interface

This step cannot be skipped. An audio interface allows a microphone to talk to your DAW and serves as the middle-man in the sound chain. It also increases overall sound quality and gives you more control over your microphone input levels. Most interfaces also come with advanced features like phantom power that you will need later in your recording adventure. All quality microphones need to run through an interface – a USB microphone is not acceptable for any kind of serious recording. Some great interfaces are as follows:

Keep in mind that prices vary greatly based on how many inputs come with the interface. If you plan on recording simple projects with one or two instruments, a single input or two inputs will suffice. If you plan on recording full bands, drum sets, or multiple tracks at once, an interface with at least four inputs is best.

Microphone

Every microphone is different and most are built to excel at one or two types of recording. Your needs will vary greatly if you plan on recording singers, podcasts, spoken word, instruments, and anything in between. Some microphones that we recommend are listed below. Be sure to read about their specialties! 

  • Shure SM-57. This microphone is best for electric guitars, overhead drums, and backing vocals.
  • Shure SM-58. This microphone is best for vocals.
  • Sennheiser e835. This microphone is best for vocals.
  • Bluebird SL. This microphone is best for acoustic guitar, strings, folk instruments, and room recordings.
  • Avantone Pro CV-12. This microphone produces excellent quality vocals.

Patience

Learning how to record takes a lot of time and energy. Diving in can be overwhelming, so be prepared to read lots of advice and help in books and on the internet. Most importantly, don’t be afraid to make mistakes and experiment. Recording is a valuable and useful skill, and like anything worthwhile, getting good at it just takes time and dedication. This book is helpful for beginners.

Next Steps

If you have a bit extra in your budget, aim for purchasing a quality set of monitors next. You can record on headphones, but the results will not be as professional as when using monitors. The Kali Audio LP-6 are fantastic and affordable. Also, research and apply the best acoustic treatment that you can afford. No room is perfect for sound, and a little bit of acoustic treatment will make your recordings sound great. At the very least, purchase or make your own bass traps (adult language used). Glenn Fricker\'s YouTube channel is an excellent resource for quality recording information at home. Please be advised that his videos use adult language.

Good luck in starting your recording adventures! Stay tuned for more in-depth information through our blog!

This post contains affiliate links. We receive a small amount of compensation when you purchase from our links, which we almost always blow on new guitars!

Instruments on Order

Instruments on Order

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Instruments on Order

Are you a new student in need of an instrument? Maybe you\'re a seasoned musician looking to upgrade. Have you read our guitar buying guide, keyboard guide, and acoustic piano guide but still feel stuck? We are here to help!

Dealer Access

Songbirds Music, Art, & Dance Center holds contracts with some of the biggest music dealers and companies like Hal Leonard. This means that we have access to excellent quality instruments on order at a reduced price! Our dealers also provide music gear and accessories like strings, DJ equipment, hand percussion, music stands, and so much more. We are able to sell items at MAP, the lowest price allowed by the manufacturer. Special deals apply for in-store purchases and orders!

Sample Products

Check out the following instruments that you can order today! All of professional-quality and are highly recommended by our staff. Remember, the price that you see is much higher than the actual price when you make an order!

Gretsch Catalina 5-Piece Drumset

Hardwood Cajon

Miami Dolphins Acoustic Guitar

Morley Electric Guitar Wah Pedal

Kahua Tenor Ukulele

Stage Performance Keyboard

There are plenty of awesome items to choose! We are also able to special-order books, educational materials, and music software. Keep Songbirds Music, Art, & Dance Center in mind for your next big music purchase (and save a lot in the process!)!

Guitar Buying Guide

Guitar Buying Guide

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Congratulations on taking your first step towards owning a guitar! If you haven’t purchased a guitar before, the process can be very confusing and frustrating. The following guitar buying guide will help you zero in on the best kind of guitar that fits your specific musical needs.

Sizing: How old (or how big) is the student?

Not all guitars are created equal. As a matter of fact, no two guitars are alike! One of the most noticeable differences is size. The most common size categories are as follows:

  • ¼ Size – This guitar is VERY small and is almost like a ukulele. It’s best for very young and small children.
  • ½ Size – As the name suggests, this guitar is half the size of a standard guitar. It’s best for very young children who may be bigger than their classmates.
  • ¾ Size – This guitar is for elementary school children and is just a little smaller than a standard guitar. Children benefit by using this instrument because their hands are the right size to reach all of the strings, frets, and positions comfortably.
  • Standard Size – This is the traditional adult guitar. Most students from middle school to adult are ready for this kind of instrument.
  • Over-Sized – This guitar is bigger, heftier, and richer in tone quality than standard-size guitars.

After years of teaching guitar, I find that purchasing the largest comfortable instrument is the best. Children grow quickly, and several months of stretching extra hard on a standard size guitar will pay off in the long run when they grow into it (it will help them get those tricky chords!). This is better than spending money on a ¾ size only to have them outgrow it and require a larger instrument within the year. Always test a couple of guitar sizes out and see what feels best.

Different Types of Guitars

Now that you know what size you need, it’s time to determine what type of guitar is best for you. The most common kinds of guitars are below:

  • Acoustic – This guitar has six steel strings and is hollow. This is the best choice for beginners. Ninety-nine percent of the time, I advise students who do not currently have a guitar to purchase an acoustic instrument. The acoustic guitar is extremely adaptable, and most songs from widely disparate genres sound good on it!
  • Classical – This guitar has six strings, four of which are nylon and two of which are steel. It is hollow and has a very wide neck. It is common in Latin music and folk styles, like Flamenco, use it. This is best for students who want to pursue Classical Guitar as their primary focus.
  • Electric Solid Body – This guitar has six steel strings and is not hollow. It is usually very thin and sleek. It requires amplification to be heard clearly, but is the best choice for beginners who want to play predominantly in the rock genres (punk, classic rock, progressive rock, metal, etc.).
  • Electric Semi-Hollow Body – This guitar has six steel strings and is slightly bulkier than the electric solid body. It also requires amplification to be heard clearly, but some sound is produced by the hollow cavities in its body. These guitars are more expensive and are best saved for intermediate and advanced playing. They are common in jazz, pop, folk, and some rock genres.
  • Electric Hollow Body – This guitar has six steel strings and is usually quite large. It is hollow like an acoustic guitar, but it still can be amplified for maximum sound. These guitars can be incredibly expensive and are best for advanced musicians. Jazz predominantly features them.
  • Others – The guitar family has lots of weird and unusual members. Some of the most common outliers are the Twelve-String, Eight-String, Seven-String, Double-Neck, and Dobro (Slide Guitar). Unless you have a specific need or interest in one of these specialties, it is best to stay away from these until you are ready for advanced playing.

A note for those deciding between acoustic and electric: Tension on the acoustic guitar’s strings is higher than the electric family, but that really benefits new students. It is so much easier to begin playing on an acoustic guitar and then switch to an electric guitar than to go the other way. Oftentimes, when students begin on an electric and try to pick up an acoustic guitar, they get frustrated and feel defeated where acoustic players usually find electric instruments easy to play.

Value and Brands

There are many different guitar manufactures. Excellent guitars are made all over the world – country of origin doesn't matter. To find the best instrument for you, it’s best to think in terms of price bracket. If a guitar is very expensive, there’s a very good reason for it. Likewise, if a deal seems too good to be true, stay away! The guitar market is very competitive and it is uncommon to find an instrument that is severely overpriced or underpriced. The following outlines some reliable brands for varying ability levels:

  • Beginner: Yamaha, Takamine, Ibanez, Washburn, Squier
  • Intermediate: Ibanez, Fender, Epiphone, Gretsch, Jackson, ESP, Schecter, Yamaha, Washburn, Takamine
  • Advanced: Ibanez, Gibson, Fender, Paul Reed Smith, Taylor, Martin, Rickenbacker

This guitar buying guide is heavily based on my opinion and experiences. I play Ibanez instruments nearly exclusively and can’t compliment them enough. However, I know that the other manufacturers above produce excellent instruments.

Be aware that some manufactures mark up their prices based on name recognition. For example, an intermediate Fender guitar may be one hundred dollars more than an Ibanez of the same quality. The absolute best way to tell if the guitar is right for you is to play it and see how it feels in your hands. Be advised to stay away from Taylor, Martin, and custom models of the advanced brands until you are absolutely ready. They can be very expensive!

Below are some guitar brands to avoid. Purchasing one will likely set you up for frustration and disappointment. A lot of guitar technique is dependent on you having a well-made instrument. If your instrument isn’t up to snuff, then how will you be?

Never buy: First Act, Applause, Spectrum, Daisy Rock, Ovation, Crescent, big brand knock-offs, community carnival guitars, and anything that you don’t recognize!

The Perfect Guitar

Still don’t know which one to buy? That is okay! Your priorities should be as follows:

  1. Does the guitar feel good when I play it? It should feel nice in your hands.
  2. Does the guitar fit my price range? (I recommend buying the best quality instrument that you can afford without breaking the bank)
  3. Do I like the way that the guitar looks? If it makes you happy to see it, you’ll want to play it! The ideal guitar is both an excellent instrument and a great conversation piece.

If you can satisfy all three priorities with one instrument, then you’ve found the one! If a guitar doesn’t quite fit, then it’s time to keep looking.

Where to Shop

I purchase nearly all of my instruments on Craigslist, Facebook marketplace or locally from other musicians. There really is no reason to buy a brand-new guitar when there are so many excellent used instruments available. Please exercise caution when using Craigslist or other internet services that require you to meet with strangers.

If the above sounds out of your comfort zone, you can find great used instruments (as well as shiny new ones!) at Guitar Center, Sam Ash, and other music stores. I recommend purchasing your first guitar at a big-box store so that you can play it and compare it to other similar instruments. If you must purchase online through Amazon, eBay, Sweetwater, various music stores, or other companies, be sure to check the insurance policy for shipment as well as the return policy.

Keep in mind that some brands and manufacturers are designed for easy modification. If you enjoy taking things apart or tinkering with projects, you might enjoy purchasing a cheaper “project” guitar and replacing parts to make it sound extraordinary. My current performance guitar is a project guitar – I made an intermediate-level Mexican Fender Stratocaster sound like it cost thousands of dollars by a weekend of modification work and around fifty dollars in parts.

Final Considerations

The guitar must feel good beneath your fingers! The biggest culprit for uncomfortable playing is action, or how far away the strings are from the fretboard. If the strings are too high, it is usually a simple fix. All new guitars need a professional set-up. If you are purchasing from a reputable dealer such as Guitar Center or Sam Ash, you should ask for a set-up before leaving the store. Most companies include this in the purchase cost. If you are buying a used instrument or if a set-up isn’t included under the terms of your purchase, you should find a knowledgeable guitar teacher or luthier (guitar repairman and technician) to do it for you. Contact us for guitar repair and referrals!

Check what kind of strings are on the guitar. Strings come in varying thicknesses, or gauges. A beginner needs extra light or light gauge. It might not be a bad idea to purchase a new set of strings so that you are prepared when the guitar’s current strings get old or break.

You will probably need a guitar pick. Like strings, they also come in varying thicknesses. I wouldn’t recommend anything thicker than a medium for beginners. Picks also have a curious way of disappearing – it’s a great idea to purchase a pack!

It’s best to own a guitar strap as well. This makes playing more comfortable, plus you can stand and play! Be sure that the strap is something that looks aesthetically pleasing but is also kind to your shoulders. It is definitely worth it to pay a little extra for comfort.

Internet reviews are your friend! The guitar community is so large and diverse that most models have plenty of reviews. You can usually trust what your colleagues are saying.

Good luck on acquiring your first guitar, and congratulations on taking this exciting step! Looking for something else besides a guitar buying guide? Read our other blogs here.

This post contains affiliate links. We receive a small amount of compensation when you purchase from our links, which we almost always blow on new guitars!

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