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Songbirds Speaker Guide

Amp Speakers: All You Need to Know

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Believe it or not, speakers have a huge impact on the overall sound of your amp and tone. They are the part of your chain that is responsible for transforming electrical signal into actual sound waves. Speakers do a lot of heavy lifting! Here’s some information on how to get the most out of your amp and your speakers.

General Considerations:

If you aren’t quite happy with the sound of your amp, make sure that it is placed appropriately in the room. Most speakers sound best when they are closer to ear level – you can raise them off the floor or tilt your cabinet to get this effect.

In general, speakers should be the last piece of the signal chain that gets an upgrade. If your guitar isn’t great, for example, buying a set of expensive speakers won’t magically fix the tone. Ensure that you love the rest of the gear (guitar, pedals, amp, pickups, etc.) before swapping speakers.

Speaker size has a big impact on overall sound. Twelve inch and ten inch models tend to sound the best for guitar by maximizing richness and fullness, while fifteen inch ones are great for bass. Larger speakers produce and support better bass frequencies.

Before swapping speakers, check that the ones that you have are set up appropriately. If they are producing a hum or not sounding quite right, there may be an issue with the amp. The speakers could also be damaged or plugged in incorrectly.

If speakers sound thin and brittle, they may be out of phase (when using multiple amps or sound sources at once) or out of polarity (plugged in backwards). Check this first!

New (or different) speakers may or may not make a huge improvement on your tone. Proceed with caution. Testing speakers in person and conducting unbiased A/B tests is the only way to know if the upgrade is worth it for you and your set up. Do not trust YouTube or other recordings online. With those recordings, the player in the video often has completely different gear, and the method of recording, like mic placement, can totally change the sound that is produced.

Notable Brands:

As far as great speaker brands, you can’t go wrong with Celestion, Jensen, Eminence, and CTS. In particular, Celestion carries many speaker models that are the gold standard for reliability and great tone. The Celestion Vintage 30s, for example, have been used so ubiquitously over the last several decades that players are trying to branch out and find more unique sounds!

Companies like Mojotone and Weber produce speakers that are made with vintage specs and also sound incredible. These are great options for reliable speakers that don’t carry extra name brand cost. Weber also offers services for breaking in new speakers as well as plenty of customization options.

Like any other piece of music gear, there’s a big vintage market with speakers. Many players swear that vintage sounds better and responds to accents with more finesse, but that’s up to the individual to decide. Depending on the year and the model, the high cost of vintage may not be worth the actual audial return when installed in the amp. The most important value of vintage (or used) speakers is that they are almost always broken in, meaning that the stiffness of the cone has worn off. Speakers that have been used sound warmer and are more responsive.

Impedance:

All speakers have an impedance rating, or how much resistance they present to the amp. Combo amps will have matching speakers installed, but the issue of impedance often arises when swapping amp heads and cabinets. Impedance is an important consideration when dealing with tubes as a severe mismatch can damage the amp. In general, amps should be matched to their speakers with the same impedance rating. This means that a four ohm amp output should be connected to a four ohm speaker, for example. 

Mismatches can be safely accomplished with interesting sonic results, but it’s good practice to never exceed double the impedance rating in either direction. For example, a four ohm amp may do just fine pushing an eight ohm speaker, but connecting it to a sixteen ohm speaker may cause damage.

If you aren’t sure about the rating of your speaker, you can easily measure its impedance by using a digital multimeter on its resistance setting. Place one probe on the positive terminal of the speaker, and the other probe on the negative terminal. It is common for the resistance to read slightly lower than the speaker’s rating. For example, a six ohm read would indicate that the speaker is rated with an eight ohm impedance. A reading of zero ohms or infinite ohms indicates a non-functional speaker.

Speakers and amps that are severely mismatched can still be used together with some simple rewiring! This is most easily accomplished with more than one speaker at a time, but you can also match impedance with only one speaker and some resistors. Check out this article to learn about wiring multiple speakers in series and parallel to match impedance, and read this article to learn how to solder resistors on a single mismatched speaker to match impedance.

Conclusion:

I hope that these tips help you get the most from your speakers! Let us know if you have any questions. Songbirds also has dealer access to Celestion and other speaker brands, so get in touch if there’s a special upgrade that you’re considering!

Guitar Tone Guide

Guitars: What Actually Matters for Tone

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We are ecstatic to announce our new dealership agreement with Ibanez! In light of the good news, I felt it prudent to write a blog about what actually impacts an electric guitar’s sound and playability. This is a hotly contested topic, and there is no shortage of opinions online. I recommend following the advice of individuals who have done genuine scientific experiments and have building experience to back up their claims. I have personally built several guitars from scratch and have repaired many instruments of varying quality. The opinions here are what I’ve discovered – if you have varying information, please let us know!

A further disclaimer: Paul of PRS Guitars famously follows a 21-point checklist that his company developed. This list includes 21 points on the instrument that impact sound quality. My list below isn’t to say that I don’t believe Paul or conventional wisdom on the topic – I’m just of the belief that the list can be heavily skewed towards things that matter a lot versus things that hardly matter at all.

What Matters A LOT:

  • Pickups. At this stage of my career, I’ll die on the hill that pickups are the most important feature of an electric guitar. This is only tied with the neck (see below). A good quality pickup can make or break the sound of the instrument and how the signal is translated to the speaker.
  • Pickup orientation. There’s a huge tonal difference between single-coil pickups, humbuckers, active pickups, and other types that you commonly find in guitars. For example, the thinner, chime-y sound of single-coils is what defines country, southern rock, funk, and classic rock. What’s more, the pickups can be wired to virtually any configuration. Whether it’s three-position, five-position, or more… coil tapping, wiring mods… the possibilities are endless and can all change the tonal palette that you have on your instrument.
  • Neck/Fretboard. The neck of the guitar has the biggest impact on how it feels when played. In my opinion, a good neck should be straight and slick with frets that are set well and intonated correctly. If the neck is excellent, your playing will improve dramatically.
  • Setup. Every guitar needs a professional setup to play and sound its best. A setup includes action adjustment, or how high the strings are from the fingerboard, and intonation adjustment, or how in tune the guitar is with itself. Both of these have a massive impact on how easy it is to play and how correct it sounds.
  • Speaker/Amp. This a bit beyond the scope of this blog, but your output setup matters. An incredible and expensive guitar will only sound average when played through a low-quality speaker or amp. Balance the quality of your speaker with your guitar for best tonal results.
  • Tuners. I’ve found that tuners don’t change the sound of the instrument – their job is to stay in place and be reliable. However, this is important when you’re playing frequently and doing lots of re-tuning and bending. Low-quality tuners will go out of tune frequently and make your instrument sound wonky. I always recommend locking tuners – even the cheaper models are above and beyond what standard tuners can accomplish in regard to reliability.

What Matters A LITTLE:

  • The pick that you use. Picks of different hardness and elasticity will have different strengths of attack against the strings. This mostly translates to loudness, but different picks also change how you play.
  • The strings. You’ve probably heard of string gauge, or how thick a string is. You can get monster sound from both thick and thin strings – what really matters is tuning stability and sustain. Thicker strings stay in tune longer and sustain more, but they are difficult to bend and can hurt the fingers. Thin strings have the opposite features. Experiment with what size strings are best for your play style, and don’t forget that fresh strings will always sound and feel better than old ones.
  • The nut. Players often get into arguments about what material of nut is best for the sound of the guitar. I don’t have strong opinions on this topic, but I do believe that cheap plastic nuts should be swapped out for better-quality materials like bone, synthetic bone, or brass. This is to prevent breakage and keep the strings in tune longer.
  • Internal electronics. Better quality electronics like potentiometers and wires don’t have a huge impact on the signal of the guitar, but they’re much more durable and feel better to use. I always recommend swapping out stock electronics for ones of better quality simply because they’ll last longer and resist wear.

What HARDLY MATTERS at all:

  • “Tonewood” or what the body is made of. This has a big impact with acoustic guitars, but it doesn’t matter very much at all for electric guitars. Your primary concern with the body should be its shape (how does it feel to hold it and play for extended periods?) and its weight. There’s nothing worse than playing a multi-hour gig with a brick tied across your shoulders. Check out this video by Glen Fricker for a tonewood side-by-side comparison (parental discretion advised: language) and this video of that one time someone made a cement guitar.

The Final Takeaway:

If I were building a guitar on a budget for a professional gig, I’d splurge on nice pickups and a good neck. Nothing else has a massive impact on my style of playing. Check out this video for a demonstration of why pickups matter, even when there isn’t a guitar body at all.

I hope that this helped clear some things up! Let us know if you’d like to check out some awesome new Ibanez products, and until next time with the Knowlege Blog, keep practicing!

Custom Guitar Pedals

What are the Most Important Guitar Pedals?

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The wonderful world of guitar pedals and effects can be overwhelming. I remember buying my first pedal when I was in high school and never truly learning how to use it (or even what it did!) for years. The exciting reality is that guitar pedals allow us to transform our instrument into an amazing variety of sounds – the sky's the limit! Here are my recommendations for the most important types of guitar pedals to get you started, plus some of my favorites in each category. Don't forget that Songbirds stocks custom pedals that are clones of most of these circuits that are listed! Check out our shop, or contact Justin if you have an idea for a custom order.

Custom Guitar Pedals

1. Overdrive, Distortion, or Fuzz

This recommendation is especially true if you currently don’t have any guitar pedals. Start here if you’re brand new to the pedal world! Overdrive, Distortion, or Fuzz should be your most important pedal because they all make an incredible difference in your sound when activated. They open up your horizons and allow you to more authentically play rock, blues, metal, or any genre with crunch. The one that you choose is up to personal taste, but I recommend Overdrive for the most utility in different musical styles. Overdrive has less distortion and signal clipping, Distortion has a medium amount, and Fuzz has a lot!

My favorite overdrives are the DOD250, Klon Centaur, and EQD Speaker Cranker.

For distortion, I love the Proco RAT and EQD Acapulco Gold.

My favorite fuzzes are the original germanium Fuzz Face and the Devi-Ever Hyperion.

Songbirds has clones of ALL of these listed favorites in stock, plus they're custom! Come in and try them to see if you like how they sound.

2. Amp Simulator or Tone Shaping

Every guitarist needs a reliable “amp-in-a-box” pedal, especially for playing gigs and recording. You can skip this step if you ONLY play with an amplifier. However, the moment you start playing through a speaker, PA, or recording through an interface, you will notice the need for an Amp Simulator. Why is that? Guitar amps do a lot of heavy lifting with shaping the way that guitars sound. They boost the incoming guitar signal before the speaker makes it sing, plus they have great control over EQ, or how much bass, middle, and treble sound is in your signal. Most importantly, amps “warm up” the sound of the instrument by adding in natural breakup, or very light distortion, which we have come to expect when we hear a guitar.
An Amp Simulator pedal provides all of the perks of your guitar amp, in a conveniently smaller and much lighter package. This pedal should always go last in your signal chain before heading out to your speakers or interface. Treat it just like you would a real amp. Even acoustic guitarists need an Amp Simulator, especially because those instruments tend to sound tinny when plugged directly into a speaker.
If you are primarily recording through an interface, you can use virtual Amp Simulators in your Digital Audio Workstation. Having an EQ or Amp Simulator pedal may still help shape your sound at the source, which always expedites the recording and writing process.

The most famous utility amp simulator is the Joyo American Sound. This company also stocks a British Sound version. You can't beat the price!

More boutique amp simulator pedals offer a wider control over tone shaping and specific warmth. I play with a clone of a Dumble Overdrive Special that I made, but I also love a Fender Tweed simulator. Ask Songbirds if you'd like a custom amp sim pedal made for you!

3. Reverb or Delay

These circuits add dimension, space, and depth to your guitar’s sound. Reverb is more of an ambient wash that imitates the sound of a room when music is played in it. Imagine how your guitar would sound if you were to perform in a concrete stairwell, a warehouse, or a cathedral – that’s Reverb. Delay is more of an echo. This circuit briefly copies your incoming guitar signal, then spits out a copy at a delayed rate that you can control. Imagine shouting into a canyon or clapping in a cave or stadium – that’s Delay.
Most professional guitarists have both Reverb and Delay pedals (and use them together), but there is a fair amount of overlap in what they accomplish. I’m more of a Reverb guy myself, but it’s up to you to decide what you like best!

I always use an EQD Ghost Echo clone that I made at the end of my signal chain for excellent reverb.

For delay, you can't go wrong with the digital titan, the Boss DD-3. I personally prefer analog delays that have a bit of grit and warmth to their decay like the MXR Carbon Copy or the Madbean Cave Dweller (a mid-fi DIY project with amazing capability).

4. Something Unique

Now it’s time to have some fun! I recommend that your next pedal is something that is unique – something that makes you excited to play it (and maybe is a little wacky). Maybe it could be a Chorus for a seasick wash of sound, or maybe it could be an Autowah to make your guitar “speak” like a robot. You could be extra adventurous and try a Phaser or a Flanger for crazy out-of-this-world alien sounds, or you could experiment with a Bitcrusher for old-school video game sound effects. We are lucky to have some much technology at our fingertips, and with a bit of innovation, we are able to make our guitars sound like completely different instruments. Have fun, and just try stuff!

This is my favorite category of pedal, and I could make an entire book on recommendations. The Midfi Clarinot, Walrus Audio Julia, Parasit Studio Multiwave, Morley Autowah, and EQD Grand Orbiter are probably the five wacky pedals that I would take to a desert island, assuming it had power and lots of guitars.

Speaking of “just try stuff”, check out the JHS Show, one of my favorite channels for awesome guitar content!

Great Bass Guitars

Great Bass Guitars (under $400!)

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Great Bass Guitars

The bass guitar is a relatively simple instrument, but finding a quality and ergonomic one can be tricky. There are a lot of factors that go into considering the perfect bass like weight, scale, and onboard electronics. Use this list to narrow down the search and find the bass that is perfect for you! What's more, all of these great recommendations are under $400!

Some bass enthusiasts may wonder why Squier or Fender basses didn't make this list. Fender's price point is too high for this “under $400 collection.” Some Squier basses fit the price point, but I have found them to be exceptionally heavy. They are still great instruments, though! If you have the shoulders for it, try a Squier.

Ibanez 4-String Bass Guitar

I owned and played this bass for a while and loved it. It is a great all-purpose instrument and is perfect as a first bass guitar. The onboard electronics are nice, and all of the color choices are especially fun!

Ibanez 4-String Bass Guitar, 4 Knobs

This bass is slightly nicer than the previous example. It has one extra tone knob which can help narrow down the instrument's sound. However, don't sweat it if this is out of your price range – three knobs is still a great option!

Ibanez GSR Six String Bass

This is an incredible price for a six-string bass. What's more, the finish options are classy and beautiful! Most beginners should start with four strings, but this instrument is perfect for the intermediate or advanced player who is interested in expanding to more strings.

Ibanez Five String Bass

Much like the previous link, this is a fantastic price for a five-string bass! The price and quality of Ibanez instruments can't be beat, especially for bass guitars. The addition of extra strings is a personal preference, but many bassists find having the extra string useful.

Ibanez Mezzo Bass

This is one sleek and flashy instrument. It's a true medium-scale bass, meaning that it's slightly smaller and lighter than most basses. Players with small hands may find this instrument for comfortable. The finish is sure to get compliments as well!

Hofner IgnitionSB Bass

This is a clone of the famous Beatles bass that Paul McCartney used! I play this model often and absolutely love it. It is light as a feather and sounds amazing. If weight is an issue, this is undoubtedly the best choice on this list. Plus, it looks super cool!

Hofner Bass (Black)

This is the same instrument as the previous link, but in black. It's one sleek bass!

Yamaha GRM Four String Bass

This is a great bass offering by Yamaha, another wonderful instrument manufacturer. This instrument boasts four knob controls and electronics that are comparable, if not better than, the Ibanez's in the same price bracket.

Yamaha BB-Series Bass

This model is very comparable to the previous Yamaha bass, but the body design is exceptionally eye-catching! If you want a flashy bass that stands out, look no further.

There you have it! Enjoy these great bass recommendations all under $400. Check out our blog for more quality information, articles, and buying guides!

Guitar Buying Guide

Guitar Buying Guide

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Congratulations on taking your first step towards owning a guitar! If you haven’t purchased a guitar before, the process can be very confusing and frustrating. The following guitar buying guide will help you zero in on the best kind of guitar that fits your specific musical needs.

Sizing: How old (or how big) is the student?

Not all guitars are created equal. As a matter of fact, no two guitars are alike! One of the most noticeable differences is size. The most common size categories are as follows:

  • ¼ Size – This guitar is VERY small and is almost like a ukulele. It’s best for very young and small children.
  • ½ Size – As the name suggests, this guitar is half the size of a standard guitar. It’s best for very young children who may be bigger than their classmates.
  • ¾ Size – This guitar is for elementary school children and is just a little smaller than a standard guitar. Children benefit by using this instrument because their hands are the right size to reach all of the strings, frets, and positions comfortably.
  • Standard Size – This is the traditional adult guitar. Most students from middle school to adult are ready for this kind of instrument.
  • Over-Sized – This guitar is bigger, heftier, and richer in tone quality than standard-size guitars.

After years of teaching guitar, I find that purchasing the largest comfortable instrument is the best. Children grow quickly, and several months of stretching extra hard on a standard size guitar will pay off in the long run when they grow into it (it will help them get those tricky chords!). This is better than spending money on a ¾ size only to have them outgrow it and require a larger instrument within the year. Always test a couple of guitar sizes out and see what feels best.

Different Types of Guitars

Now that you know what size you need, it’s time to determine what type of guitar is best for you. The most common kinds of guitars are below:

  • Acoustic – This guitar has six steel strings and is hollow. This is the best choice for beginners. Ninety-nine percent of the time, I advise students who do not currently have a guitar to purchase an acoustic instrument. The acoustic guitar is extremely adaptable, and most songs from widely disparate genres sound good on it!
  • Classical – This guitar has six strings, four of which are nylon and two of which are steel. It is hollow and has a very wide neck. It is common in Latin music and folk styles, like Flamenco, use it. This is best for students who want to pursue Classical Guitar as their primary focus.
  • Electric Solid Body – This guitar has six steel strings and is not hollow. It is usually very thin and sleek. It requires amplification to be heard clearly, but is the best choice for beginners who want to play predominantly in the rock genres (punk, classic rock, progressive rock, metal, etc.).
  • Electric Semi-Hollow Body – This guitar has six steel strings and is slightly bulkier than the electric solid body. It also requires amplification to be heard clearly, but some sound is produced by the hollow cavities in its body. These guitars are more expensive and are best saved for intermediate and advanced playing. They are common in jazz, pop, folk, and some rock genres.
  • Electric Hollow Body – This guitar has six steel strings and is usually quite large. It is hollow like an acoustic guitar, but it still can be amplified for maximum sound. These guitars can be incredibly expensive and are best for advanced musicians. Jazz predominantly features them.
  • Others – The guitar family has lots of weird and unusual members. Some of the most common outliers are the Twelve-String, Eight-String, Seven-String, Double-Neck, and Dobro (Slide Guitar). Unless you have a specific need or interest in one of these specialties, it is best to stay away from these until you are ready for advanced playing.

A note for those deciding between acoustic and electric: Tension on the acoustic guitar’s strings is higher than the electric family, but that really benefits new students. It is so much easier to begin playing on an acoustic guitar and then switch to an electric guitar than to go the other way. Oftentimes, when students begin on an electric and try to pick up an acoustic guitar, they get frustrated and feel defeated where acoustic players usually find electric instruments easy to play.

Value and Brands

There are many different guitar manufactures. Excellent guitars are made all over the world – country of origin doesn't matter. To find the best instrument for you, it’s best to think in terms of price bracket. If a guitar is very expensive, there’s a very good reason for it. Likewise, if a deal seems too good to be true, stay away! The guitar market is very competitive and it is uncommon to find an instrument that is severely overpriced or underpriced. The following outlines some reliable brands for varying ability levels:

  • Beginner: Yamaha, Takamine, Ibanez, Washburn, Squier
  • Intermediate: Ibanez, Fender, Epiphone, Gretsch, Jackson, ESP, Schecter, Yamaha, Washburn, Takamine
  • Advanced: Ibanez, Gibson, Fender, Paul Reed Smith, Taylor, Martin, Rickenbacker

This guitar buying guide is heavily based on my opinion and experiences. I play Ibanez instruments nearly exclusively and can’t compliment them enough. However, I know that the other manufacturers above produce excellent instruments.

Be aware that some manufactures mark up their prices based on name recognition. For example, an intermediate Fender guitar may be one hundred dollars more than an Ibanez of the same quality. The absolute best way to tell if the guitar is right for you is to play it and see how it feels in your hands. Be advised to stay away from Taylor, Martin, and custom models of the advanced brands until you are absolutely ready. They can be very expensive!

Below are some guitar brands to avoid. Purchasing one will likely set you up for frustration and disappointment. A lot of guitar technique is dependent on you having a well-made instrument. If your instrument isn’t up to snuff, then how will you be?

Never buy: First Act, Applause, Spectrum, Daisy Rock, Ovation, Crescent, big brand knock-offs, community carnival guitars, and anything that you don’t recognize!

The Perfect Guitar

Still don’t know which one to buy? That is okay! Your priorities should be as follows:

  1. Does the guitar feel good when I play it? It should feel nice in your hands.
  2. Does the guitar fit my price range? (I recommend buying the best quality instrument that you can afford without breaking the bank)
  3. Do I like the way that the guitar looks? If it makes you happy to see it, you’ll want to play it! The ideal guitar is both an excellent instrument and a great conversation piece.

If you can satisfy all three priorities with one instrument, then you’ve found the one! If a guitar doesn’t quite fit, then it’s time to keep looking.

Where to Shop

I purchase nearly all of my instruments on Craigslist, Facebook marketplace or locally from other musicians. There really is no reason to buy a brand-new guitar when there are so many excellent used instruments available. Please exercise caution when using Craigslist or other internet services that require you to meet with strangers.

If the above sounds out of your comfort zone, you can find great used instruments (as well as shiny new ones!) at Guitar Center, Sam Ash, and other music stores. I recommend purchasing your first guitar at a big-box store so that you can play it and compare it to other similar instruments. If you must purchase online through Amazon, eBay, Sweetwater, various music stores, or other companies, be sure to check the insurance policy for shipment as well as the return policy.

Keep in mind that some brands and manufacturers are designed for easy modification. If you enjoy taking things apart or tinkering with projects, you might enjoy purchasing a cheaper “project” guitar and replacing parts to make it sound extraordinary. My current performance guitar is a project guitar – I made an intermediate-level Mexican Fender Stratocaster sound like it cost thousands of dollars by a weekend of modification work and around fifty dollars in parts.

Final Considerations

The guitar must feel good beneath your fingers! The biggest culprit for uncomfortable playing is action, or how far away the strings are from the fretboard. If the strings are too high, it is usually a simple fix. All new guitars need a professional set-up. If you are purchasing from a reputable dealer such as Guitar Center or Sam Ash, you should ask for a set-up before leaving the store. Most companies include this in the purchase cost. If you are buying a used instrument or if a set-up isn’t included under the terms of your purchase, you should find a knowledgeable guitar teacher or luthier (guitar repairman and technician) to do it for you. Contact us for guitar repair and referrals!

Check what kind of strings are on the guitar. Strings come in varying thicknesses, or gauges. A beginner needs extra light or light gauge. It might not be a bad idea to purchase a new set of strings so that you are prepared when the guitar’s current strings get old or break.

You will probably need a guitar pick. Like strings, they also come in varying thicknesses. I wouldn’t recommend anything thicker than a medium for beginners. Picks also have a curious way of disappearing – it’s a great idea to purchase a pack!

It’s best to own a guitar strap as well. This makes playing more comfortable, plus you can stand and play! Be sure that the strap is something that looks aesthetically pleasing but is also kind to your shoulders. It is definitely worth it to pay a little extra for comfort.

Internet reviews are your friend! The guitar community is so large and diverse that most models have plenty of reviews. You can usually trust what your colleagues are saying.

Good luck on acquiring your first guitar, and congratulations on taking this exciting step! Looking for something else besides a guitar buying guide? Read our other blogs here.

This post contains affiliate links. We receive a small amount of compensation when you purchase from our links, which we almost always blow on new guitars!