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Instrument care summer heat tips

Instrument Care Tips

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As with most things like appliances, houses, cars, and even weight (looking at you, carbs…), it’s far easier to prevent problems before they start than to fix a developed issue. Instrument care is no different, and there’s a lot that you can do to keep your beloved musical friend in good condition! This is particularly crucial during summer months in Florida – yikes to all that humidity!

 

First Things First – Heat and Humidity:

There’s no way around it: this state is brutally hot. It’s best to treat your instrument just like a person or a pet. If you would be overheated in a certain situation, your instrument would be as well. Never leave your instrument in a car or outside for extended periods (this includes overnight!). If you’re enjoying marching band camp or must be outside, try to keep your instrument in the shade or out of direct sunlight.

UV damage from the sun is a real issue. We don’t have sunscreen for instruments, but it’s a good idea to move your indoor musical friends away from windows with direct sunlight. This not only prevents discoloring, but it reduces tuning issues and prolongs overall instrument life!

Humidity is the real enemy of all acoustic instruments, and left unchecked, it can ruin your instrument and leave it requiring major repairs. Your instruments should always spend the majority of their time indoors in a climate-controlled environment. If your house is particularly humid, a small dehumidifier for the room may be a good idea. You can also experiment with desiccant packs in the instrument case (beware, they do wear out eventually). Acoustic pianos may require dehumidifier bars that can be easily installed in the shell. If you have a particularly valuable instrument that lives in a case, special humidity-controlled cases are available for a pretty penny.

 

Wood Instrument Care:

Even many years after its creation, wood forever remains an organic substance that is impacted by humidity and external conditions. Check with your Songbirds instrument technician about what treatment your instrument wood needs to stay healthy. For example, most woods need to be occasionally oiled to prevent a complete dry-out which leads to cracks and damage. Lemon oil is available, but you can also use mineral oil as it is the same thing without the added fragrance – plus it’s not as expensive!

A gentle abrasive like 0000-grade steel wool or a fine Scotch-Brite pad may be useful for removing built-up dirt and grime on the surface of the wood. I always recommend lubricating abrasives with a bit of mineral oil and rubbing with the grain of the wood to prevent scratches.

 

The Secret Weapon:

Microfiber cloths! These handy rags do a ton of heavy lifting with instrument care. Use them to wipe down your instrument after use and remove fingerprints and oils. You can also use them to apply oil or cleaning products, plus they do a fantastic job with buffing and polishing. Just be careful to keep them clean – if something sharp or gritty gets stuck in a microfiber cloth, your instrument may get scratched!

 

Buffing and Polishing:

No matter what you play, your instrument probably has some metal pieces. Any good automotive polish works wonders in brightening your metal hardware and removing light scratches. I prefer McGuiars – look for one that has a high or very fine finish!

 

Extra Tips:

Wipe down your instrument after each practice session, especially if you are prone to sweaty hands like me! The natural oils from our body don’t play well with instruments, and a gentle wipe goes a long way in preventing damage. It’s like brushing your teeth!

If you play a stringed instrument, you’ll likely notice the need for more frequent string changes in the summer months. This is normal, don’t worry. Some string cleaning products may be helpful in prolonging corrosion, but I find it best to spend a few extra bucks and purchase coated strings that are resistant to sweat and oil.

For brass instruments, try to buff out scratches and scuffs soon after they happen so that they don’t build up and get worse. If a scratch exposes bare metal, check with your technician on how to prevent rust and corrosion.

Keep a tuner handy – your instrument will go out of tune frequently in the summer!

 

Conclusion:

I hope that these tips help you keep your instruments in their best shape and away from damage! Just remember that being proactive goes a long way and can help save you money on future repairs. Stay tuned for future installments of the Knowledge Blog, keep practicing, and stay cool out there! Don’t forget to hydrate, of course!

Pivot Percussion Pedal Review

Pivot Percussion – A Review

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What feels like 403 years ago, the world was plunged into distress with the onset of the Covid-19 pandemic. We don’t need to relive the panic and hardship. However, it’s worth mentioning that musicians and the performance industry were hit extremely hard. Bars, restaurants, and venues closed. Overnight, singing became one of the most transmissible and dangerous pastimes. Gigs and performance opportunities are slowly coming back, but the landscape has been forever changed by Covid-19. Venues that used to regularly hire full bands and groups can now only afford to support solo players and duos.

 

Act I: The Problem.

Without his trusty band behind him, the hero of our story, Shaun, felt the need to augment his performance. He plays guitar and sings, but there wasn’t enough punch or low end to his show. One night, he saw a fellow musician play guitar and stomp on a suitcase that had an SM58 microphone stuck inside. The sound was unreliable and muddy, and the singer’s constant motion looked exhausting. But the idea was sparked. Shaun knew that he could take this concept and turn it into something incredible.

 

Intermission: Testing, Testing, Testing.

Shaun developed “The Lab”, a specialty workshop on his property for creating, testing, and prototyping what would one day become Pivot Percussion. I was fortunate enough to gig with him frequently as a duo during this development period, and there was a new model under our feet nearly every week. From the beginning, Shaun had nailed the ergonomic and comfortable nature of the pedals, but there was still work to be done with the perfect tone and sound. With what is now unique patented technology, Shaun created the Pivot Capsules. These are modular cores that can be swapped in and out of the pedals to make different sounds. Whether it’s a punchy bass drum, a sizzly shaker, or a snappy maraca, we were able to completely customize our show.

 

Act II: The Solution.

Enter, YOU. It’s time for the audience to try out Pivot. These one-of-a-kind instruments are now launched to the world and for sale at pivotpercussion.com. There will also be some at Songbirds very soon! Here’s an honest review of Pivot and what it can do for your performances:

 

The Review:

I absolutely love my Pivot pedals. There are other percussion instruments on the market, but Pivot fills a much-needed void. The pedals themselves are beautiful and nearly indestructible, plus there’s peace of mind knowing that the heart of the technology, the capsules, are easily replaceable if something were to go wrong. Here are my specific pros and cons after playing the pedals from their inception to launch:

 

Pros:

Passive components. I LOVE the fact that the Pivots don’t require external power or batteries. They’re just like a guitar – plug and play. I’m fortunate enough to know a little about how they’re wired on the inside, and I can say with confidence that the patented technology is extremely robust. Shaun said from the beginning that he wanted to be able to run them over with a van and they could keep playing. I’m confident that would be possible. (No Pivots were harmed in the making of this review.)

Impact reactive. Pivot pedals are all analog, meaning they don’t work like a digital trigger. With competitor percussion devices, the sound is constant no matter how hard you play. Pivots are a real instrument – the sound and attack changes the harder you stomp. You can also get interesting and varied results based on your footwear. This makes the Pivots much more musical and organic.

Incredible sound quality. Shaun nailed each of the capsules and their sound signatures. Pivot pedals sound massive and present through PAs and powered speakers right out of the box. Very little (if any) tweaking is needed on the speaker to make the Pivots sound their best.

Eco-friendly. Each Pivot pedal is made with locally-sourced, reclaimed lumber. This includes trees that were lost during hurricanes and storms. Instead of destroying wood in a landfill, Shaun turns fallen trees into musical works of art.

Locally owned and operated. Pivot Percussion is based out of Longwood, Florida. Each pedal is handmade and inspected.

Great customer support. Shaun stands by each pedal and is quick to offer support and replacements if needed.

Unique builds with customization. Because Pivots are made of real lumber, no two pedals look alike. Shaun makes some incredibly attractive Pivots that showcase natural woodgrain and the beauty of the tree. There are also customization options available. I was given a prototype pedal that has my face on it!

Super comfy. This is the kicker (pun intended): you really can play for hours without getting tired. The design of the Original Pivot works perfectly with the flow of the leg and the knee. Using your heel to stomp prevents any shin pain or muscle fatigue, and the padding of the Pivot plus your footwear prevents any soreness in the heel. You can literally stand on the Original Pivots while playing them if you prefer to stand while performing. The Standard Pivots are great for playing piano or a minimalistic drumset. It’s worth mentioning that the Standards can be played with both the heel and the toe for maximum comfort.

Extra goodies. Shaun offers quality Pivot cables, cases, and straps for the instruments. It’s nice when companies go the extra mile. Everyone knows Sweetwater for the candy that they throw in every order – Pivot’s attention to detail with bonus goodies is even better.

 

Cons:

Difficult to master at first. I won’t sugarcoat this – Pivot pedals take a lot of time to get the hang of and master. I’m admittedly not the most coordinated person, but playing guitar, singing, AND stomping your feet on rhythm is challenging. I started incorporating Pivots into my performance gradually. Once you get over the first coordination hurdle, they do start to feel natural and second nature. Most of us tap our feet while playing anyway; the mental obstacle isn’t there, but the physical one takes some time.

Lots of options. This is both a Pro and a Con: there are a lot of customization options with the Pivot sound! There are three standard options with capsules: kick, maraca, and shaker. Combine this with using two pedals at once, and there are A LOT of possible combinations to take your playing to the next level. I use my Pivot pedals with a looper, and it’s easy to get lost in the possibilities and overcomplicating your performance. I started incorporating just the kick capsule with one pedal until I felt confident enough to expand.

Need a good sound system. This likely isn’t an issue, but Pivots sound the best when played through a nice powered speaker or PA. Pivots are targeted towards the professional, working musician who likely has a quality system already, so I don’t expect that this would be a hindrance to anyone purchasing a Pivot pedal.

 

Conclusion:

We are incredibly proud of Shaun and excited about the launch of Pivot Percussion! Come check them out at Songbirds, and ask Justin when you can see them in action at a local gig. Until next time, keep practicing, and check out our other posts on the Knowledge Blog!



Guitar Tone Guide

Guitars: What Actually Matters for Tone

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We are ecstatic to announce our new dealership agreement with Ibanez! In light of the good news, I felt it prudent to write a blog about what actually impacts an electric guitar’s sound and playability. This is a hotly contested topic, and there is no shortage of opinions online. I recommend following the advice of individuals who have done genuine scientific experiments and have building experience to back up their claims. I have personally built several guitars from scratch and have repaired many instruments of varying quality. The opinions here are what I’ve discovered – if you have varying information, please let us know!

A further disclaimer: Paul of PRS Guitars famously follows a 21-point checklist that his company developed. This list includes 21 points on the instrument that impact sound quality. My list below isn’t to say that I don’t believe Paul or conventional wisdom on the topic – I’m just of the belief that the list can be heavily skewed towards things that matter a lot versus things that hardly matter at all.

What Matters A LOT:

  • Pickups. At this stage of my career, I’ll die on the hill that pickups are the most important feature of an electric guitar. This is only tied with the neck (see below). A good quality pickup can make or break the sound of the instrument and how the signal is translated to the speaker.
  • Pickup orientation. There’s a huge tonal difference between single-coil pickups, humbuckers, active pickups, and other types that you commonly find in guitars. For example, the thinner, chime-y sound of single-coils is what defines country, southern rock, funk, and classic rock. What’s more, the pickups can be wired to virtually any configuration. Whether it’s three-position, five-position, or more… coil tapping, wiring mods… the possibilities are endless and can all change the tonal palette that you have on your instrument.
  • Neck/Fretboard. The neck of the guitar has the biggest impact on how it feels when played. In my opinion, a good neck should be straight and slick with frets that are set well and intonated correctly. If the neck is excellent, your playing will improve dramatically.
  • Setup. Every guitar needs a professional setup to play and sound its best. A setup includes action adjustment, or how high the strings are from the fingerboard, and intonation adjustment, or how in tune the guitar is with itself. Both of these have a massive impact on how easy it is to play and how correct it sounds.
  • Speaker/Amp. This a bit beyond the scope of this blog, but your output setup matters. An incredible and expensive guitar will only sound average when played through a low-quality speaker or amp. Balance the quality of your speaker with your guitar for best tonal results.
  • Tuners. I’ve found that tuners don’t change the sound of the instrument – their job is to stay in place and be reliable. However, this is important when you’re playing frequently and doing lots of re-tuning and bending. Low-quality tuners will go out of tune frequently and make your instrument sound wonky. I always recommend locking tuners – even the cheaper models are above and beyond what standard tuners can accomplish in regard to reliability.

What Matters A LITTLE:

  • The pick that you use. Picks of different hardness and elasticity will have different strengths of attack against the strings. This mostly translates to loudness, but different picks also change how you play.
  • The strings. You’ve probably heard of string gauge, or how thick a string is. You can get monster sound from both thick and thin strings – what really matters is tuning stability and sustain. Thicker strings stay in tune longer and sustain more, but they are difficult to bend and can hurt the fingers. Thin strings have the opposite features. Experiment with what size strings are best for your play style, and don’t forget that fresh strings will always sound and feel better than old ones.
  • The nut. Players often get into arguments about what material of nut is best for the sound of the guitar. I don’t have strong opinions on this topic, but I do believe that cheap plastic nuts should be swapped out for better-quality materials like bone, synthetic bone, or brass. This is to prevent breakage and keep the strings in tune longer.
  • Internal electronics. Better quality electronics like potentiometers and wires don’t have a huge impact on the signal of the guitar, but they’re much more durable and feel better to use. I always recommend swapping out stock electronics for ones of better quality simply because they’ll last longer and resist wear.

What HARDLY MATTERS at all:

  • “Tonewood” or what the body is made of. This has a big impact with acoustic guitars, but it doesn’t matter very much at all for electric guitars. Your primary concern with the body should be its shape (how does it feel to hold it and play for extended periods?) and its weight. There’s nothing worse than playing a multi-hour gig with a brick tied across your shoulders. Check out this video by Glen Fricker for a tonewood side-by-side comparison (parental discretion advised: language) and this video of that one time someone made a cement guitar.

The Final Takeaway:

If I were building a guitar on a budget for a professional gig, I’d splurge on nice pickups and a good neck. Nothing else has a massive impact on my style of playing. Check out this video for a demonstration of why pickups matter, even when there isn’t a guitar body at all.

I hope that this helped clear some things up! Let us know if you’d like to check out some awesome new Ibanez products, and until next time with the Knowlege Blog, keep practicing!

Practice Tips for Performance

How to Really Practice

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This upcoming weekend, our student Rock Bands will be performing at one of the biggest local festivals that occurs each year. In light of that, I thought it’d be a good idea to go over some tips for preparing for your next big performance, audition, or show! This information is geared towards musicians, but dancers and other performing artists may find it helpful as well. These tips apply most appropriately for live music – stay tuned if you’re looking for tips on how to record successfully. On to the info!

 

1. Accessories and Backups

No matter what you’re playing or performing, your instrument or equipment will need accessories of some kind. That may be reeds for a clarinet, slide oil for a trombone, picks for a guitar, or rosin for a bow. The night before you perform, check that you have everything packed and that it’s ready to go. Always bring as many backups as possible – you’ll never need them if you have them, but that one time that you only have one set of guitar strings will be that one time that they break during a show. Being prepared with all of your gear will give you extra peace of mind and will help you focus on having fun for your performance.

 

2. Tuning

It may seem obvious, but it’s super easy to overlook tuning. Tune your instrument before you play, and double-check that tuning before you go on stage! Singers should warm up gently without overdoing it. If you are playing in a climate with humidity and temperature fluctuation, like outdoors in summer, you’ll need to check your tuning more frequently. It’s a good idea to go the extra mile and have your instrument serviced by a professional repair technician in between shows. It may need some TLC to get it playing optimally. The worst feeling is playing an instrument that fights against you.

 

3. Silly Things

Double check all of the silly things that often get overlooked. Is your guitar plugged in? Is the amp volume set appropriately? Are the PA speakers on? Did you tighten your bow? Is your reed set correctly on the mouthpiece? When something goes wrong at a performance, it’s almost always due to something silly and minor. The amount of times that I’ve forgotten to plug in a cable…

 

4. Take it Seriously, but Don’t.

Performing should always make you a tiny bit nervous. This doesn’t mean that earthshaking, panic-inducing stage fright that we feel the first time that we try something new – this means that little tingle of nerves that mean we care. Taking your performance seriously helps you focus and play your best, but remember that the Arts are meant to be shared and enjoyed. We aren’t saving lives and the stakes aren’t high when we play. Just have fun, play, and take it seriously (a little bit).

 

5. Control Your Body

With any kind of performance, your body is either your instrument or an extension of your instrument. The best thing that you can do is breathe slowly, deeply, and with steady rhythm. Deep breathing tricks your body into feeling calm and safe. On the other hand, fast, shallow, and arhythmic breathing starts a panic reflex in the body. This then snowballs into an adrenaline rush, or the fight/flight/freeze response that you often hear so much about. If you’ve ever had sweaty palms, increased heart rate, or dizziness before going on stage, you’ve had your panic reflex well underway. Before performing, take purposeful time to breathe and slow down. Try inhaling through your nose and exhaling through your mouth on an “s” or “z” sound. This trick slows your air and offers gentle resistance to your airstream. You can also experiment with using a “power pose” – the most common is a shoulder-width stance with your hands on your hips and chest raised. An open position like this also tricks your body into slowing down and helps fight off stage fright.

 

6. Practice with Intention

Take time to practice well before your performance. The phrase “amateurs practice until they get it right, masters practice until they can’t get it wrong” is annoying, but accurate. Practice with intention and focus as much as possible, but don’t overdo it. It’s much more effective to practice in short increments frequently than one big chunk per day. Take breaks when needed, and make a point to be honest and focus on the sections that need the most work. It’s tempting to practice your performance all the way through, but the spots that need fixing will be glossed over and sloppy. Be like a bloodhound after a scent and target the tricky bits – if you can fix them, your entire performance will improve! Lastly, remember that good practicing takes time (a lot of time!). You probably won’t be able to prepare a new piece the day before a performance, so plan ahead.

 

I hope that your next performance is fun, awesome, and rewarding! Stay tuned for future installments of our Knowledge Blog, and in the meantime, keep practicing!

phrygian mode guide

How to use the Phrygian Mode

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One of our previous blog posts about how to use Dorian is still one of our most-viewed of all time. It seems like there’s a lot of hunger for information about modes, so let’s take a deep-dive into the absolute BEST mode in music: Phrygian.

Hold up: why is Phrygian the best? This is subjective, of course, but it’s my favorite as it can immediately transport you to exotic musical lands. It has the sound of classic middle-eastern mystique and can absolutely melt faces when paired with metal or rock. It also has three variants contained within itself, so it’s highly versatile. To the western musical ear, it’s one of the farthest and most dramatic departures from what we are used to hearing. It’s gratifying and thrilling – what’s not to love?

A Reminder About Modes:

Modes don’t need to be complicated. Grab your instrument (or ideally, go to a keyboard) and play the concert C Major scale. Those notes are C – D – E – F – G – A – B – C. This scale is a mode in itself: Ionian. When we play a Major scale, we are also playing an Ionian scale. We use two different words to describe the same thing, but most musicians don’t know about modes. Use this knowledge bomb to impress your friends with your musical nerdiness. 😉

Now, if we were to play the same NOTES from the C Major scale, but start in a different spot within the scale, we would be playing a different mode. It’s that simple.

Phrygian starts on the third note of the Major scale. This means that Phrygian, using the same key signature and notes of C Major, would be: E – F – G – A – B – C – D – E.

Play that scale, which we will now call E Phrygian, on your instrument and hear how it sounds.

Special Note:

The method for arriving here doesn’t resonate with some people as easily as others. If this was too confusing, you can approach Phrygian ‘in reverse’. Think of the E major scale. Those notes are E – F# – G# – A – B – C# – D# – E. We can turn E Major into E Phrygian by lowering, or flattening, the second, third, sixth, and seventh, notes. The shorthand for this is “E Phrygian is Major with a flat 2, 3, 6, 7”.

Still confusing? You can also think of it as an E natural minor scale with a flat 2.

The Most Important Note:

Phrygian uses the flat 2, which is the reason why it sound so special. When writing or improvising with Phrygian, it’s a good idea to utilize the flat 2 a lot!

How to use Phrygian - Easy Mode:

All modes, but especially the exotic ones, do very well with a pedal tone. This is a single note that drones below the melody of the music. For inspiration, check out some traditional Indian sitar music or Klezmer music. In the case of Indian music, there is often a tone generator on stage that drones the pedal tone while the sitarist plays.

Let’s use this method to improvise an awesome Phrygian melody. Find an easy way to drone the note E – it’s better if it’s low. You could record a piano and loop it with your phone, or you could use a free tone generator online.

Once you have that set up, grab your instrument and play the E Phrygian scale! Pay special attention to how the notes relate to the pedal tone.

How to use Phrygian - Medium Mode:

Plenty of songs exist with pedal tones, but chordal harmonies add so much depth to the piece. Let’s compose a chord progression using the notes of the E Phrygian scale. As a refresher, those notes are: E- F – G – A – B – C – D – E

This means that the chords would be Em – F – G – Am – Bdim – C – Dm – Em.

It’s important that we use the notes of the scale for our chords, for now. Try the following progressions on your instrument, and when you’re ready, use the E Phrygian scale to solo over them:

Em | Bdim | C | Em

Em | F | G | Em

Am | G | F | Em

Em | F | G | F | Em

How to use Phrygian - Hard Mode:

I mentioned earlier that there are some cool variants of Phrygian, and here they are! The best one (in my opinion), is called Phrygian Dominant. This version sounds even more exotic. All you have to do is raise the third note by one half step, or sharp the 3. This means that, in E Phrygian Dominant, G becomes G#. The notes of this scale are E – F – G# – A – B – C – D – E, and the chords for harmonies are E – F – G#dim – Am – Bdim – C+ – Dm – E. Note that we are using E Major, not E minor, with this variant, plus we get TWO diminished chords and the rare augmented chord on C! Spicy! The best example of this variant is the guitar solo for the song Don’t Fear the Reaper. Take a listen and enjoy those cool harmonies!

Try to solo over the following chord progressions with E Phrygian Dominant:

E | F | Am | E

E | F | G#dim | Am

E | Bdim | C+ | Dm

But Wait! There's One More Variant:

Now that you’ve grown accustomed to the Phrygian Dominant scale, you can take it one step further with this last variant: the Double Harmonic Scale. This is simply a Phrygian Dominant with the seventh note raised one half step, or a #7. That means that the notes of the E Double Harmonic Scale are E – F – G# – A – B – C – D# – E. Use the same chords as in the Phrygiant Dominant, as the raised seventh of the Double Harmonic Scale functions as a melodic tool for tension and release – much like the Melodic Minor scale.

If you’ve understood all of this, you are ready to branch out and use the Phrygian scale in unique ways. Much like with the Double Harmonic, you can now make alterations to your chord harmonies and melodies that pair well (or not!) with Phrygian. For example, I might write a chord progression with the Phrygian Dominant chords and substitute a B Major chord in (so that the D# note in the Double Harmonic has an interesting place to land). I could also use the Phrygian Dominant scale over a standard Em chord progression to enjoy all of the dissonance and rub where the notes don’t quite align. Have fun with it!

Conclusion:

I hope that this sheds some light on the best musical mode, Phrygian, and that you get loads of enjoyment from experimenting with it! Stay tuned for more guides on how to use other modes in the future, and if you want to dive deeper, check out our Music Lesson Program!

Custom Guitar Pedals

What are the Most Important Guitar Pedals?

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The wonderful world of guitar pedals and effects can be overwhelming. I remember buying my first pedal when I was in high school and never truly learning how to use it (or even what it did!) for years. The exciting reality is that guitar pedals allow us to transform our instrument into an amazing variety of sounds – the sky's the limit! Here are my recommendations for the most important types of guitar pedals to get you started, plus some of my favorites in each category. Don't forget that Songbirds stocks custom pedals that are clones of most of these circuits that are listed! Check out our shop, or contact Justin if you have an idea for a custom order.

Custom Guitar Pedals

1. Overdrive, Distortion, or Fuzz

This recommendation is especially true if you currently don’t have any guitar pedals. Start here if you’re brand new to the pedal world! Overdrive, Distortion, or Fuzz should be your most important pedal because they all make an incredible difference in your sound when activated. They open up your horizons and allow you to more authentically play rock, blues, metal, or any genre with crunch. The one that you choose is up to personal taste, but I recommend Overdrive for the most utility in different musical styles. Overdrive has less distortion and signal clipping, Distortion has a medium amount, and Fuzz has a lot!

My favorite overdrives are the DOD250, Klon Centaur, and EQD Speaker Cranker.

For distortion, I love the Proco RAT and EQD Acapulco Gold.

My favorite fuzzes are the original germanium Fuzz Face and the Devi-Ever Hyperion.

Songbirds has clones of ALL of these listed favorites in stock, plus they're custom! Come in and try them to see if you like how they sound.

2. Amp Simulator or Tone Shaping

Every guitarist needs a reliable “amp-in-a-box” pedal, especially for playing gigs and recording. You can skip this step if you ONLY play with an amplifier. However, the moment you start playing through a speaker, PA, or recording through an interface, you will notice the need for an Amp Simulator. Why is that? Guitar amps do a lot of heavy lifting with shaping the way that guitars sound. They boost the incoming guitar signal before the speaker makes it sing, plus they have great control over EQ, or how much bass, middle, and treble sound is in your signal. Most importantly, amps “warm up” the sound of the instrument by adding in natural breakup, or very light distortion, which we have come to expect when we hear a guitar.
An Amp Simulator pedal provides all of the perks of your guitar amp, in a conveniently smaller and much lighter package. This pedal should always go last in your signal chain before heading out to your speakers or interface. Treat it just like you would a real amp. Even acoustic guitarists need an Amp Simulator, especially because those instruments tend to sound tinny when plugged directly into a speaker.
If you are primarily recording through an interface, you can use virtual Amp Simulators in your Digital Audio Workstation. Having an EQ or Amp Simulator pedal may still help shape your sound at the source, which always expedites the recording and writing process.

The most famous utility amp simulator is the Joyo American Sound. This company also stocks a British Sound version. You can't beat the price!

More boutique amp simulator pedals offer a wider control over tone shaping and specific warmth. I play with a clone of a Dumble Overdrive Special that I made, but I also love a Fender Tweed simulator. Ask Songbirds if you'd like a custom amp sim pedal made for you!

3. Reverb or Delay

These circuits add dimension, space, and depth to your guitar’s sound. Reverb is more of an ambient wash that imitates the sound of a room when music is played in it. Imagine how your guitar would sound if you were to perform in a concrete stairwell, a warehouse, or a cathedral – that’s Reverb. Delay is more of an echo. This circuit briefly copies your incoming guitar signal, then spits out a copy at a delayed rate that you can control. Imagine shouting into a canyon or clapping in a cave or stadium – that’s Delay.
Most professional guitarists have both Reverb and Delay pedals (and use them together), but there is a fair amount of overlap in what they accomplish. I’m more of a Reverb guy myself, but it’s up to you to decide what you like best!

I always use an EQD Ghost Echo clone that I made at the end of my signal chain for excellent reverb.

For delay, you can't go wrong with the digital titan, the Boss DD-3. I personally prefer analog delays that have a bit of grit and warmth to their decay like the MXR Carbon Copy or the Madbean Cave Dweller (a mid-fi DIY project with amazing capability).

4. Something Unique

Now it’s time to have some fun! I recommend that your next pedal is something that is unique – something that makes you excited to play it (and maybe is a little wacky). Maybe it could be a Chorus for a seasick wash of sound, or maybe it could be an Autowah to make your guitar “speak” like a robot. You could be extra adventurous and try a Phaser or a Flanger for crazy out-of-this-world alien sounds, or you could experiment with a Bitcrusher for old-school video game sound effects. We are lucky to have some much technology at our fingertips, and with a bit of innovation, we are able to make our guitars sound like completely different instruments. Have fun, and just try stuff!

This is my favorite category of pedal, and I could make an entire book on recommendations. The Midfi Clarinot, Walrus Audio Julia, Parasit Studio Multiwave, Morley Autowah, and EQD Grand Orbiter are probably the five wacky pedals that I would take to a desert island, assuming it had power and lots of guitars.

Speaking of “just try stuff”, check out the JHS Show, one of my favorite channels for awesome guitar content!

Great Bass Guitars

Great Bass Guitars (under $400!)

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Great Bass Guitars

The bass guitar is a relatively simple instrument, but finding a quality and ergonomic one can be tricky. There are a lot of factors that go into considering the perfect bass like weight, scale, and onboard electronics. Use this list to narrow down the search and find the bass that is perfect for you! What's more, all of these great recommendations are under $400!

Some bass enthusiasts may wonder why Squier or Fender basses didn't make this list. Fender's price point is too high for this “under $400 collection.” Some Squier basses fit the price point, but I have found them to be exceptionally heavy. They are still great instruments, though! If you have the shoulders for it, try a Squier.

Ibanez 4-String Bass Guitar

I owned and played this bass for a while and loved it. It is a great all-purpose instrument and is perfect as a first bass guitar. The onboard electronics are nice, and all of the color choices are especially fun!

Ibanez 4-String Bass Guitar, 4 Knobs

This bass is slightly nicer than the previous example. It has one extra tone knob which can help narrow down the instrument's sound. However, don't sweat it if this is out of your price range – three knobs is still a great option!

Ibanez GSR Six String Bass

This is an incredible price for a six-string bass. What's more, the finish options are classy and beautiful! Most beginners should start with four strings, but this instrument is perfect for the intermediate or advanced player who is interested in expanding to more strings.

Ibanez Five String Bass

Much like the previous link, this is a fantastic price for a five-string bass! The price and quality of Ibanez instruments can't be beat, especially for bass guitars. The addition of extra strings is a personal preference, but many bassists find having the extra string useful.

Ibanez Mezzo Bass

This is one sleek and flashy instrument. It's a true medium-scale bass, meaning that it's slightly smaller and lighter than most basses. Players with small hands may find this instrument for comfortable. The finish is sure to get compliments as well!

Hofner IgnitionSB Bass

This is a clone of the famous Beatles bass that Paul McCartney used! I play this model often and absolutely love it. It is light as a feather and sounds amazing. If weight is an issue, this is undoubtedly the best choice on this list. Plus, it looks super cool!

Hofner Bass (Black)

This is the same instrument as the previous link, but in black. It's one sleek bass!

Yamaha GRM Four String Bass

This is a great bass offering by Yamaha, another wonderful instrument manufacturer. This instrument boasts four knob controls and electronics that are comparable, if not better than, the Ibanez's in the same price bracket.

Yamaha BB-Series Bass

This model is very comparable to the previous Yamaha bass, but the body design is exceptionally eye-catching! If you want a flashy bass that stands out, look no further.

There you have it! Enjoy these great bass recommendations all under $400. Check out our blog for more quality information, articles, and buying guides!

Snare Drum Upgrades

Snare Drum Upgrades (for under $300!)

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Snare Drum Upgrades

Let's face it – any drummer needs an amazing snare drum to sound great. The snare might be the most important drum in the whole drum kit! If your drum set is sounding a little sub-par, check out these recommendations for great snare drums that won't break the bank. All of these snares are great quality pieces that will last well into a professional drumming career.

All of the links below are from Sweetwater, a reputable musical instrument dealer. You may find better prices elsewhere, but the customer service of Sweetwater can't be beat. As with any instrument, it is always best to try it out in person, if possible, before purchasing.

Ludwig Black Magic Snare

This is a clone of one of the most famous and sought-after snare drums in history: the Ludwig Black Beauty. You can't beat the sound, quality, and recognition of this snare.

Pearl Piccolo Snare

Pearl is a great and reliable drum company. A lot of their products and endorsements are common in Florida as well! Piccolo snares are thinner and therefore have more “snap” and “crack” than their normal-sized counterparts. This snare in particular boasts great community reviews.

Mapex Armory Snare

This is a great and forgiving snare that has a warm tone. It is perfect for playing a variety of genres. It is a true hybrid snare and is ideal for the gigging musician, cover band artist, or recording performer.

Pearl Modern Utility Snare

Much like the Mapex Armory Snare, this Pearl model is perfect for playing across various genres of music. It also has a warm tone and much more depth than the listed piccolo snare.

Pearl Session Snare

This snare was designed with recording in mind. Therefore, the sound that it produces is top-notch. It is made with two plies of birch, a softer wood, and two plies of mahogany, a rich and dense tone wood. This combination produces a beautiful finish and an unbeatable sound.

Mapex Daisy Cutter

This gorgeous snare is the most vocal on our list. Be sure to wear earplugs – this snare is loud! This is the perfect model for musicians who enjoy harder rock, metal, and demanding drumming.

PDP Concept Snare

This snare is one classy drum. The walnut tone wood and finish make it sound and look warmer than other snares on the market. This model is also great for playing across genres.

We hope that you enjoyed these great snare recommendations! Check out our Blog for more buying guides, gear suggestions, and interesting articles!

Instruments on Order

Instruments on Order

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Instruments on Order

Are you a new student in need of an instrument? Maybe you\'re a seasoned musician looking to upgrade. Have you read our guitar buying guide, keyboard guide, and acoustic piano guide but still feel stuck? We are here to help!

Dealer Access

Songbirds Music, Art, & Dance Center holds contracts with some of the biggest music dealers and companies like Hal Leonard. This means that we have access to excellent quality instruments on order at a reduced price! Our dealers also provide music gear and accessories like strings, DJ equipment, hand percussion, music stands, and so much more. We are able to sell items at MAP, the lowest price allowed by the manufacturer. Special deals apply for in-store purchases and orders!

Sample Products

Check out the following instruments that you can order today! All of professional-quality and are highly recommended by our staff. Remember, the price that you see is much higher than the actual price when you make an order!

Gretsch Catalina 5-Piece Drumset

Hardwood Cajon

Miami Dolphins Acoustic Guitar

Morley Electric Guitar Wah Pedal

Kahua Tenor Ukulele

Stage Performance Keyboard

There are plenty of awesome items to choose! We are also able to special-order books, educational materials, and music software. Keep Songbirds Music, Art, & Dance Center in mind for your next big music purchase (and save a lot in the process!)!

Acoustic Piano Buying Guide

Acoustic Piano Buying Guide

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You can always go to a showroom and purchase a brand new piano, but doing so will be very expensive. Brand new professional pianos can cost as much as a car! We highly encourage purchasing all acoustic pianos used. You can find some amazing deals and used instruments for sale on the internet. Craigslist, Facebook Marketplace, Nextdoor, Reverb, and other applications are perfect for finding your next piano. However, there are some general safety tips and guidelines that you should follow when meeting a stranger from the web: know how to recognize a scam, take a friend with you, and trust your instinct. It also worthwhile to ask the seller pertinent questions and to do your research about the item before the sale occurs.

Acoustic Pianos

Acoustic pianos are the ‘real’ instruments that you know and love. They usually come in five types:

  • Spinet (36-38” tall and 58” wide)
  • Upright (45-60” tall and 58” wide)
  • Baby Grand (4.5-7.5’ long and 5’ wide)
  • Grand (4.5-9.5’ long and 5’ wide)
  • Player or Specialty (50-60” tall and 58” wide)

When examining acoustic pianos before purchase, ask the seller if he or she can provide any information about the piano’s age, how much time has passed since it has been tuned, and the amount that it has been used. If you decide to purchase the instrument and a part later breaks, the information that you gained with these questions may help point you or a piano technician in the right direction for repairs.

Be sure to play every single key. Take your time. Every note needs to play cleanly. It’s likely that several keys may get stuck or be sluggish – this is generally an easy repair and should not change your overall opinion of the instrument. Be wary of pianos that have multiple keys that do not make any sound at all. Repairing “dead” keys is often more involved and can be expensive!

Next, hold down the right foot pedal at the base of the instrument and play several notes. All the notes should ring out without stopping until you release the foot pedal. Be wary of right (sustain) pedals that do not function as they should. Repairing it should be relatively easy, but it may inform you of other problems with the instrument.

Ask the seller to open the lid of the piano. Upright-style pianos all have a top panel that can be removed. There is also a second panel below the keyboard and above the pedals that can be detached. These steps are not necessary but removing the panels can help you visually identify any problems or broken pieces that may be present. Do not worry if the instrument is dusty, dirty, or has spiderwebs in it. Carefully examine the piano hammers (the oblong felt pieces that strike the strings) to ensure that none are broken or missing. Hammer repair is tedious and time consuming. Consider how much energy and money you want to invest in the instrument if it has broken hammers. Likewise, string repair can become costly. If several notes do not make sound due to missing or broken strings, move on to a better piano.

It’s likely that some of the piano key tops will be broken or missing. Do not let this deter you from the instrument if nothing else is wrong. Replacement key tops are cheap and very easy to install. Likewise, do not be afraid if the instrument is severely out of tune. If a piano has been neglected for many years, it will simply take several tunings to return it to its correct pitch. This will not have any effect on its value or condition.

Some Absolute No-no’s

Do not buy the piano if it has been exposed to water, has water damage, or has been outside. Water and humidity are devastating to all acoustic instruments.

Do not buy the piano if multiple keys do not make any sound and you are unable to discern the cause. For example, a foreign object may get lodged inside the piano and block keys from working. If you can’t figure out why the keys isn’t working, it will likely cost time, money, and new parts to repair.

Do not buy the piano if it has been sitting in a garage, attic, outdoor storage unit, shed, or any area without air conditioning for an extended period. Any unregulated climate changes will destroy the piano felts. It will also be very out of tune!

Final Notes

Don’t worry about scratches or dents in the finish, broken key tops, tuning issues, unleveled keys (piano keys that vary in height), varying key weight (some keys may be easier to play/require less force than others), dust and dirt, and excess echo or ringing. All of these repairs are easy, and some can be done on your own!

If you feel good about the seller, you can likely trust what he or she is saying. Don’t be afraid to seal the deal!

It’s unlikely that the piano will be perfect. If you know for certain that the instrument will require repairs, you might consider bargaining with the seller for a reasonable reduction of cost. This does not include tuning.

Be sure that you plan accordingly for pickup and transport of the piano. You will need a large truck or trailer (Uhaul is great for this!), at least two strong people (four is best), two piano rollers or rolling carts, tie-downs, water for drinking, and clothes that you don’t mind getting dirty.

Keep in mind that instrument value does not equate to actual price. A nice baby grand may be worth several thousand dollars, but because very few people are looking to buy it (plus, baby grands are so difficult to move!), it may only sell for several hundred. Most upright and spinet pianos can be purchased for less than $150, and often for free. Take all of this into account before seeing the actual instrument.

If you are lucky enough to find a great baby grand piano or grand piano in your price range, it is best to pay extra for professional piano movers to move it for you. These types of pianos are also extremely heavy and may need to be dismantled. Leave this kind of move to the professionals.

Moving the Piano

Move the piano away from walls and furniture. Have the strongest member of your party stand at one side of the piano and grip the instrument. Lifting with the legs, the first person should lift the piano until a second person is able to slide the roller under the instrument. Most pianos have lifting bars or handles on the back side. The process should be repeated with the other side so that, when finished, the piano is resting on two rollers. For upright pianos and spinets, most of the weight is towards the back of the instrument. Once the piano is securely on the rollers, load it onto the vehicle by using a ramp. Be sure to secure the piano with tie-downs once it is the in vehicle. It is best to remove the rollers for transport. Drive slowly and carefully. If the piano falls, it will break.

When you get your piano to its new home, try to find a location in the house that is away from intense sunlight or in the direct path of cooling vents. Placing the piano against an interior wall is best, but don’t worry if this is not possible with your home setup. Protecting the instrument from temperature fluctuations and humidity will reduce the number of tunings that it will need throughout its life.

Specialty Pianos

Avoid specialty pianos unless you have a specific need and thoroughly understand the instrument. Examples include house organs (big, heavy instruments from the 1970s. They usually have two parallel rows of keys and one row of foot pedals. They also often have an electric component.) and player pianos (acoustic pianos with a player mechanism which allows the instrument to play songs by itself). Player pianos are often antiques and can be a nice piece of history to own. They also double as functional pianos but moving them is more difficult because they are several hundred pounds heavier than their acoustic counterparts. If you find a player piano in great condition, be extra careful (and bring extra help!) when moving it.

Good luck with your search for a new-to-you piano, and as always, the team at Songbirds Music, Art, & Dance Center is here to help! Please do not hesitate to ask us any questions about instruments you may find or send us pictures if you are unsure. Contact us here. Happy Hunting!

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